Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: soft dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers in contrasting or related colors. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing, invisible zipper.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: hem allowance for garment and sleeve hem — 2.0 cm, other seams 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Lower back part — 2 pieces
- Upper front part — 2 pieces
- Lower front part — 1 piece on fold
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- From main fabric 1:
- Back placket — 2 pieces
- Back waistband — 2 pieces
- Front waistband — 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 4 pieces
- Front facing — 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- Interface details with fusible interfacing.
- Lay and stitch pleats on the upper back part (depths directed outwards and downwards). Stitch the back placket to the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the placket and overcast. Stitch the back neckline facing to the upper back part, press seam allowances towards the facing. Stitch the back waistband to the upper part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Lay and stitch pleats on the lower back part (depths directed outwards and downwards). Stitch the lower back part to the waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Overcast the center back seam separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Insert the invisible zipper.
- Stitch darts on the upper front part, press depths upwards. Lay and stitch pleats on the upper front part (depths directed outwards and downwards). Stitch the front facing to the upper front part, press seam allowances towards the facing. Stitch the center front seam from the mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Stitch the front waistband to the upper part, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Lay and stitch pleats on the lower front part (depths directed outwards and downwards). Stitch the lower front part to the waistband, press seam allowances towards the waistband and overcast.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch shoulder seams and the front center seam of the front facings from the mark to the bottom, press seam allowances open. Overcast the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline and front opening, clip seam allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Topstitch into the seam of the outer facing attachment.
- Lay and stitch pleats on the sleeve piece (depths directed outwards and downwards). Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches. Press and overcast seam allowances.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeve, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Cut a strip for the tie from main fabric_1, 4 cm wide and of desired length. Press the tie in half lengthwise, right side out. Unfold the piece, fold raw edges inwards to the center line, press again. Topstitch 0.1 cm from the edge. Cut into two pieces. Sew ties to the neckline.
