Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: thin blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. For example, chiffon. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; elastic tape 1 cm wide; 3 buttons.
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment – 1.5 cm. Allowance for the upper and middle edges of the collar stand – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!
- From main fabric:
- Back - 1 piece on fold
- Front – 2 pieces on fold
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Collar stand — 1 piece on fold
- Neckline trim — 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Fold the front pieces right sides together. Mark the cut line. Stitch 1 mm towards the armhole from the cut on both sides. Cut the front pieces between the stitches, turn the pieces right side out, straighten the cut, press. Then treat the front pieces as one piece.
- Along the upper edge of the front piece, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
- Make a cut on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to double the cut length +4 cm. Fold the bias strip in half lengthwise and press. Press the outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve cut with the bias strip.
- Attach the sleeves to the back, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Attach the sleeves to the front, press allowances towards the front and overcast.
- Stitch the side seams simultaneously with the sleeve seam, press allowances and overcast.
- Overcast the upper and middle edges of the collar stand with a narrow rolled hem. Along the lower edge of the collar stand, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather.
- Fold the neckline trim piece in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short edges. Turn the piece right side out, press. Fold the collar stand with the garment right sides together, insert the neckline trim between them and stitch. Press allowances towards the collar stand, overcast. Topstitch the fold of the trim onto the collar stand from the right side, securing the seam allowances of the attachment seam.
- Cut a bias strip 2.5 cm wide and 5 cm long for the loop. Fold the strip in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitch, turn the strip right side out and straighten the loop. Adjust the loop length. Sew the loop to the right side of the collar stand from the wrong side.
- Fold the cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side and bottom edges. Start and end the stitch exactly at the marked line of the cuff attachment seam. Turn the piece right side out, press. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with loosened thread and gather. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment. Press allowances to the wrong side and topstitch, forming a casing. Thread elastic tape through the casing and secure the ends.
- Overcast buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons. Sew a button to the left side of the collar stand.
