Hooded Coat with Toggles
A women's mid-thigh duffle-style coat with a pleated lined hood, four ready-made toggle fastenings, front and back yokes, patch pockets and two-piece sleeves with split cuffs. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and winter over jumpers, jeans and trousers.
- For walks and travel in cold or windy weather, with the hood up.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, slightly shaped by darts on the fronts.
Length: Mid-thigh.
Collar: Two-piece hood with pleats at the neckline, lined, topstitched 1 cm from the outer edge and set into the neckline.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with a deep cuff with a slit; the cuff is cut double and interfaced.
Closure: Four ready-made toggle-and-loop fastenings stitched onto the left and right fronts, plus one inside button with a buttonhole in the front facing.
Front: Interfaced front yokes, turned up along the fold line and topstitched 2 cm from the edge; front facings.
Pockets: Two patch pockets on the fronts.
Back: Centre back seam; a lined back yoke laid over the back and stitched at the shoulders and neckline, with a free lower edge.
Finishing: Shoulder pads.
Lining: Full lining of the body, sleeves, hood and back yoke, joined to the facings and hem; the coat is turned through an opening in the left sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. A bagged lining, a lined pleated hood, a lined overlay yoke, split cuffs and patch pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating fabric of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, cuffs, front yokes, outer edge of the hood)
- Shoulder pads
- 1 inside button
- 4 ready-made toggle fastenings
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 3 cm. Outer edge of hood – 2 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical details). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match! Note: marks for loop closures are indicated on the left front.
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Hood - 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- Front yoke – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
- Back yoke – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Fuse the outer allowance of the hood.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Place the back yoke with the yoke lining, stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn the yoke right side out and press. Place the yoke on the back and secure at the shoulder and neckline edges. Attach the yoke to the back along the center seam by hand from the wrong side.
- Stitch darts on the front. Press dart allowances upwards. Attach the yoke to the front. Press seam allowance towards the yoke. Turn the yoke upwards, press along the fold line and topstitch 2 cm from the edge.
- Overlock the pocket along the contour. Fold the upper pocket allowance to the wrong side and topstitch. Fold the side and bottom allowances inwards and press. Topstitch the pocket onto the front according to the markings.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the coat.
- Stitch the hood seam. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the hood lining seam. Press seam allowances to the left side. Form and secure pleats on the hood and lining. Direct pleat depths towards the shoulder edge. Place the hood and lining right sides together, stitch the outer edge. Press seam allowance towards the lining. Topstitch along the outer edge of the hood 1 cm from the edge. Attach the hood to the coat neckline.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Make the internal buttonhole on the front facing. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, neckline, and bottom corner.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the cuff into a ring from the upper edge to the slit mark. Clip and press open seam allowances at the mark. Place cuffs in pairs right sides together and stitch the slit and bottom edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out and press. Attach the upper cuff to the sleeve, press seam allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes. Press seam allowances.
- Stitch lining pieces, leaving a technical opening in the elbow seam of the left sleeve. Attach the lining to the back neckline facing, front facing, and bottom of the coat. Turn the coat right side out through the technical opening. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve, press seam allowance upwards. Secure the cuff allowances together. Close the opening.
- Sew on the internal button. Topstitch the left of the ready-made loop closure onto the left front. Correspondingly, topstitch the right of the loop onto the right front.
