Pleated Yoke Blouse With Front Pleats

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: thin blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 2 cm, hem allowance for the sleeve bottom – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 1 piece on fold
  • Front Yoke – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Overlock the bottom edge of the front yokes, press towards the wrong side and topstitch. Form and secure the pleats on the yokes (depths directed towards the shoulder edge). Place the right yoke over the left, aligning the center lines, and secure along the neckline edge.
2. Form and secure the pleats on the front (depths directed towards the side edge). Place the yoke on the front, wrong side to right side, and secure along the free edges.
3. Stitch the right shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
4. Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the neckline edge, right side, extending the tails, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip allowances, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
5. Stitch the left shoulder seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch the side seams of the blouse, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
6. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Along the upper part of the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press allowances and overlock.
7. Overlock the hem allowance of the garment and sleeve, press towards the wrong side and topstitch.