Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. ALSO NEEDED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper. For finishing: LACE TRIM 1.5-2 cm wide is needed to cover seams. Also, SATIN BIAS BINDING is needed for the "BONING".

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance for the bottom of the garment – 3.0 cm, hem allowance for the bottom of the sleeve – 1.2 cm. Other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

• From main fabric:
  • Upper center back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower center back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper side back part - 2 pieces
  • Lower side back part - 2 pieces
  • Upper side front part - 2 pieces
  • Lower side front part - 2 pieces
  • Upper center front part - 1 piece
  • Lower center front part - 1 piece
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Back neckline facing — 2 pieces
  • Front neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the shoulder seams separately on the center and side back and front parts, press allowances towards the back and serge.
3. Serge the allowance of the lower sleeve edge, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Stitch along the sleeve cap with loosened upper thread and gather.
4. Stitch the center and side upper back and front parts, inserting the sleeve between them. Press allowances towards the sleeve, serge.
5. Stitch the princess seams of the lower back and front parts, press allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the upper and lower back and front parts, press allowances upwards and serge.
6. On the left back part, along the vertical slit edge, cut 5 cm. On both back pieces, interface the slit from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (slit fold line). Press the left part along the slit fold line, on the right part, press only the allowance of the right side of the slit (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the slit. Serge the center back seam separately on each piece. Serge the slit allowances. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the slit corner. Clip the corner of the slit seam allowance on the right part. Press open the center seam allowances, press the slit allowances and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the zipper.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the neckline facings, press allowances open. Serge the outer edge. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the neckline edge. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten, press. Secure to the shoulder seams and zipper tape.
8. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 5 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise with the right side out and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Clip allowances. Fold the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
9. Stitch the side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
10. Press the allowance of the lower edge of the garment to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.