Hooded Buttoned Coat
A mid-thigh women's coat with a lined, pleated hood, an off-centre single-button front, two-piece sleeves with deep cuffs, and a separate hem band on the front and back. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In autumn and spring over sweaters and trousers or jeans.
- On rainy or windy days, when the hood replaces a hat.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, slightly loose fit, shaped with darts on the front and back; length to mid-thigh.
Collar: No collar; a two-piece hood with a centre seam and pleats at the neckline, turned towards the shoulder seam, set into the neckline. The outer edge is interfaced and topstitched 1 cm from the edge.
Front: Asymmetric wrap closed with one outer button off centre and two inner buttons on the underlap; front facings interfaced.
Sleeves: Set-in two-piece sleeves (upper and under sleeve) with an elbow seam; double-layer interfaced cuffs with a slit.
Back: Centre back seam and darts pressed towards the centre.
Skirt: A separate lower band on the front and back, seam pressed up and topstitched 0.5 cm from the seam.
Finishing: Shoulder pads; back neck facing interfaced.
Lining: Full lining for body, sleeves and hood, bagged out through an opening in the left sleeve elbow seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Two-piece set-in sleeves, a lined hood with pleats, slit cuffs, inner buttonholes on the facing and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Coating of natural or blended fibres.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, back neck facing, cuffs, outer hood edge)
- Shoulder pads
- 1 outer button
- 2 inner buttons
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 4 cm. Outer edge of hood – 2 cm. Attention! First of all, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Hood - 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff - 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Hood – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing. Interface the outer allowance of the hood.
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the allowances towards the center. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Attach the lower back. Press the allowance upwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the darts on the front. Press the allowances upwards. Attach the lower front. Press the allowance upwards and topstitch 0.5 cm from the seam.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the coat.
- Stitch the hood seam. Press the allowances open. Stitch the lining hood seam. Press the allowances to the left side. Lay and secure the pleats on the hood and lining. Direct the allowances towards the shoulder seam. Fold the hood and lining right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Press the allowance towards the lining. Topstitch along the outer edge of the hood 1 cm from the edge. Attach the hood to the coat neckline.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- Make the inner buttonholes on the front facing. Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge, along the neckline and the lower corner.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the allowances open. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve. Press the allowances open. Stitch the cuff into a ring from the upper edge to the slit mark. Clip and press open the allowances at the mark. Fold the cuffs in pairs right sides together and stitch the slit and the lower edge. Trim the allowances at the corners, turn right side out and press. Attach the upper cuff to the sleeve, press the allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press the allowances.
- Stitch the lining pieces, leaving a technical opening in the elbow seam of the left sleeve. Attach the lining to the back neckline facing, front facing and bottom of the coat. Attach the lining to the bottom of the sleeve, press the allowance upwards. Secure the cuff allowances together. Turn the coat right side out through the technical opening. Sew up the opening.
- Make the outer buttonhole and sew on the button. Sew on the inner buttons.
