Below the KNEE Belted Dress with Placket and Center Front Slit

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: soft dress fabrics made of natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; concealed zipper; 2 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: Hem allowance – 3.5 cm, other seams – 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back - 2 pieces
  • Front - 2 pieces
  • Placket – 4 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Belt – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Mark and stitch the bust darts on the front, press the dart depths upwards.
3. Stitch the shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
4. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facings and plackets, press allowances open. Fold the plackets in pairs right sides together and stitch from the corner of the front neckline to the slit mark. Clip allowances at the mark, press open. Fold the outer and inner plackets right sides together and stitch the neckline edge, clip allowances at the curve, turn the piece right side out, straighten, and press. Stitch the plackets together from the slit mark to the bottom. Attach the placket with facing to the dress, press allowances towards the main piece and overcast.
5. Overcast the center back edge separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the concealed zipper.
6. Fold the belt lengthwise in half right sides together and stitch along the long and diagonal sides. Turn the belt right side out, straighten and press.
7. Stitch the side seams, gathering and inserting the belt according to the markings, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
8. Make a slit on the sleeve along the marked line. Cut a bias strip from the main fabric 4 cm wide and a length equal to double the slit length + 4 cm. Fold the bias strip lengthwise in half and press. Press the outer allowances towards the center. Finish the sleeve slit with the bias strip. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Along the bottom edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened top thread and gather.
9. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half right sides together and stitch the corners. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam.
10. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Press allowances and overcast.
11. Overcast the hem of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
12. Overcast buttonholes and sew buttons on the cuffs.