Collared Dress with Princess Seams

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: a concealed zipper; fusible interfacing. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm; hem allowance for the dress bottom – 1.2 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical parts).

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part - 2 pieces
  • Side back part - 2 pieces
  • Center front part - 1 piece
  • Side front part - 2 pieces
  • Upper center front part – 1 piece
  • Right collar – 2 pieces
  • Left collar – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Right collar – 1 piece
  • Left collar – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! ATTENTION! MARKINGS ON THE PATTERNS ARE MADE ON THE RIGHT SIDE.

1. Interface the collars with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the back princess seams. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the center.
3. Overlock the center back edges separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the mark to the bottom, press the allowances open. Insert the zipper.
4. Stitch the right front princess seam. Overlock the allowance and press it towards the center.
5. Stitch the side and shoulder seams. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the back.
6. Fold the collar pieces in pairs, right sides together, and stitch along the outer edge and center edge. Trim the allowances at the corners, clip at the curves. Turn the collars right side out and press. Form and secure the pleats. The pleat depths are directed towards the shoulder seam.
7. Fold the left collar with the wrong side of the dress and stitch into the neckline. Overlock the allowance. Fold the collar to the right side. Secure the lower edge of the collar to the upper center front part.
8. Fold the right collar with the wrong side of the dress and stitch into the neckline, inserting the left part. Overlock the allowance. Fold the collar to the right side. Secure the collar edge to the right princess seam.
9. Stitch the left front princess seam. Overlock the allowance and press it towards the center.
10. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding along the armhole edge, right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
11. Overlock the hem allowance of the dress bottom, press it to the wrong side, and topstitch.