Two-Tone Zip Jacket
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a tailored, hip-length jacket featuring a distinctive two-tone design and a contemporary zippered front closure.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for various occasions, offering a polished yet modern look:
- Office & Business Casual: Its tailored silhouette and smart details make it perfect for professional environments.
- Day-to-Evening Transition: Easily adaptable for daytime engagements and dressed up for evening gatherings.
- Smart Casual Outings: a stylish and comfortable layering piece for social events and everyday chic.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a fitted and shaped jacket, designed to skim the body and finish at the hip.
Neckline: Features a clean, round, collarless neckline for a modern and uncluttered look.
Closure: a full-length separating zipper secures the center front, adding a contemporary touch.
Sleeves: Three-quarter length, two-piece set-in sleeves are finished with contrasting color-blocked cuffs.
Pockets: Two functional zippered welt pockets are neatly integrated vertically into the front color-block design.
Design Details: Defined by extensive color blocking and precise princess seams on both the front and back panels, ensuring a tailored fit and visual interest.
Back: Constructed with elegant paneling, including a prominent horizontal color-block section that mirrors the front design.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. This pattern requires careful panel matching, accurate zipper insertions, and experience working with lining fabric and tailoring elements such as shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting fabrics with good drape and structure to highlight the tailored silhouette and color blocking:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 1 separating zipper (for the front closure)
- 2 small zippers (for the pockets)
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 1 piece on fold
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Welt – 4 pieces
- From contrast fabric:
- Lower back – 1 piece
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Back neckline trim – 1 piece
- Front neckline trim – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve trim – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve trim – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower front – 2 pieces
- Lower back – 1 piece
- From fusible interlining: center front, back neckline trim, front facing, back neckline facing, welts.
Attention: lining pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the front facing and back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interlining to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back neckline trim to the back. Press seam allowances towards the trim. Stitch the princess seams on the back. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the lower back piece. Press seam allowance open.
- Stitch the front neckline trim to the front. Press seam allowances towards the trim. Stitch the princess seams on the front. Press seam allowances towards the center. Stitch the lower front piece. Press seam allowance open.
- Mark the position of the faux pocket. Press the welt lengthwise in half, wrong sides together. Stitch the welts to the front along the pocket marking lines. End stitching at the short marking lines. Cut open the pocket opening. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket. Turn the welts to the wrong side through the opening. Place the zipper under the welts. The edges of the welts should not cover the zipper teeth. Stitch the zipper to the welts with seams 0.5 cm from the teeth. Secure the ends of the pocket from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch the sleeve trim to the upper sleeve. Press seam allowances open. Stitch the sleeve trim to the lower sleeve. Press seam allowances open. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Press the bottom hem allowance inwards. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads, sew in sleeve heads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam. Stitch the lining to the front facings and neckline facing.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, insert the zipper (teeth away from the center) and stitch along the front edge, bottom, and neckline. Stitch the lining to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening. Secure the waist seam allowances together. Close the opening in the sleeve.
