Pleated Blouse with Rouleau Loops and Flared Cuffs

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: blouse fabrics made of natural or blended fibers with elastane. YOU ALSO NEED: 10 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THE PATTERNS INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES; IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance of the garment – 2.0 cm; side and bottom edges of the cuff – 0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 1 piece on fold
  • Placket – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve insert – 4 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Placket – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the back pieces. Press the dart fullness towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowance and press it to the left side.
3. Stitch the pleats on the front from the right side, from the top to the perpendicular mark. (Pleats are of different lengths!)
4. Cut a strip 2.5 cm wide at a 45-degree angle for the rouleau loops. Fold the strip in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out, and straighten the rouleau. Cut into sections. Adjust loop length. Stitch the loops onto the right placket (folds facing away from the edge).
5. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overlock.
6. Cut a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the neckline length + 4 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding along the neckline edge, right sides together, extending the ends, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seams, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
7. Stitch the upper corner and center edge of the right placket. Turn the placket right side out and press. On the left placket, stitch the upper corner and center edge, turn right side out and press. Overlock the raw edges of the plackets. Attach the plackets to the right side of the front along the long edge, stopping 1 cm from the bottom. Overlock allowances. Clip the front allowance at the corners, stopping 1 mm from the stitching. Tuck the ends of the plackets inwards, align them flush, and stitch, securing the bottom edge.
8. Overlock the bottom and side edges of the cuff with a narrow rolled hem. Stitch the sleeve insert into a loop, press the allowance open. Stitch the bottom edge of the inserts, inserting the cuff. Turn the cuff down, the inserts up. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overlock. Stitch along the sleeve cap with loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the outer insert to the bottom of the sleeve. Press the allowance of the inner insert inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer part. Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overlock.
9. Overlock the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
10. Sew buttons onto the left front placket. Tip: instead of self-made rouleau loops, you can use pre-made loop tape.