Fit and Flare Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; 8 buttons. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS ARE WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance for the bottom edge of the garment – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST OF ALL, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 1 piece on fold
  • Back insert – 1 piece
  • Lower back part - 1 piece on fold
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Front insert – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Placket – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Stitch the darts on the upper back piece, press the fullness towards the center. Attach the back insert to the upper back, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
3. Along the upper edge of the lower back piece, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower back piece to the back insert, press allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Along the lower edge of the upper front piece, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the front insert to the upper front, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
5. Along the upper edge of the lower front piece, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower front piece to the front insert, press allowances upwards and overcast.
6. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
7. Stitch shoulder seams of plackets and facing, press allowances open. Fold plackets with the garment right sides together and stitch the front edges and neckline. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners. Turn the placket to the wrong side, straighten and press. Fold under the allowance of the inner edge and topstitch to the main piece.
8. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Stitch the cuff into a loop, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner cuff inwards and stitch into the seam of the upper cuff attachment.
10. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overcast.
11. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side by 1 cm, then another 1 cm and topstitch.
12. Overcast buttonholes on the right front. Sew buttons on the left front.