Long-Sleeve Button-Front Ruffled Dress

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers. YOU ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing strip; bias binding in a matching color (approximate length indicated on the lower back pattern piece); 17 buttons.

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Hem allowance – 2.0 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90cm to 150cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

• From main fabric:
  • Upper back part – 2 pieces
  • Back insert – 1 piece
  • Lower back part - 2 pieces
  • Back ruffle – 1 piece on fold
  • Front ruffle – 2 pieces
  • Lower front part – 2 pieces
  • Front insert – 2 pieces
  • Upper front part – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Apply fusible interfacing strip along the edges: back neckline, front neckline, center edges of front inserts, center edges of lower front part, center edges of front ruffles.
2. Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press allowances towards the center of the pieces. Stitch the center seam of the upper back, press allowances to the left side and overcast. Attach the back insert to the upper back, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
3. Stitch the center seam of the lower back, press allowances to the left side and overcast. Along the upper edge of the lower back, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower back to the back insert, press allowances upwards and overcast.
4. Along the upper edge of the back ruffle, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the ruffle to the lower back, press allowances upwards and overcast.
5. Along the lower edge of the upper front part, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Attach the front insert to the upper front, press allowances towards the insert and overcast.
6. Along the upper edge of the lower front part, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the lower front to the front insert, press allowances upwards and overcast.
7. Along the upper edge of the front ruffle, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Attach the ruffle to the lower front, press allowances upwards and overcast.
8. Stitch side and shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and overcast.
9. Cut a strip 2.5 cm wide at a 45-degree angle for loop closures. Fold the strip lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch 0.3 cm from the fold. Trim allowances close to the stitching, turn the strip right side out and straighten the rouleau. Cut into pieces. Adjust loop length. Stitch loops onto the right front (folds facing away from the edge).
10. Fold the bias binding lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Align the bias binding with the edge of the placket and neckline on the right side and stitch, then fold the bias binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece.
11. Stitch the sleeve seam, press allowances towards the back and overcast. Along the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather. Set sleeves into armholes, matching notches, press allowances and overcast.
12. Stitch the cuff into a ring, press allowances open. Fold the cuff lengthwise in half, right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner cuff inwards and stitch into the seam of the upper cuff attachment.
13. Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
14. Sew buttons onto the left front. Tip: instead of self-made loop closures, you can use pre-made loop tape. In this case, skip step 9 and stitch the pre-made loop tape to the edge of the placket after completing step 10.