Pattern

Fabric & Materials

Fabric recommendations: dense cotton blend raincoat fabrics from natural or mixed fibers. Denim. YOU WILL ALSO NEED: fusible interfacing; decorative cord; 2 eyelets; 12 snaps. IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE NOT INCLUDED. SEAM ALLOWANCES: all seams 1 cm. Seam allowance for the upper edge of the patch pocket – 3 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED (do not forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces).

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
  • Front placket – 2 pieces
  • Hood – 2 pieces
  • Central hood part – 1 piece
  • Hood facing – 1 piece
  • Patch pocket – 2 pieces
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Casing – 1 piece
  • Bottom facing – 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front placket – 2 pieces
  • Hood facing – 1 piece
  • Flap – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 2 pieces
  • Bottom facing – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH!

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch and press the darts on the patch pocket. Fuse interfacing to the upper edge allowance of the pocket, press 1 cm, then another 2 cm, and topstitch. Press the rounded allowance to the wrong side. Topstitch the pocket onto the front according to the markings.
3. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances to the left side, serge, and topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the seam.
4. Stitch shoulder and side seams, press allowances towards the back and serge.
5. Stitch the center seam of the bottom facings, press allowances open. Press the upper allowance of the facing to the wrong side. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and stitch the bottom edge. Clip allowances, turn the facing to the wrong side. Topstitch the facing to the garment.
6. Attach the outer side of the placket to the front, press allowances towards the placket. Fold the edge of the inner placket inwards and topstitch into the attachment seam. Stitch decorative topstitching 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the edge of the placket and from the attachment seam.
7. Fold the flap in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the side edges. Trim allowances at the corners, turn the flap right side out, straighten, and press. Topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the edge. Serge the upper edge. Attach the flap to the front, fold down, and topstitch.
8. Serge the allowances of the short sides of the casing, press to the wrong side, and topstitch. Press the allowances of the long sides of the casing to the wrong side. Place the casing on the right side of the garment according to the markings and topstitch.
9. Attach the side parts of the hood to the central part, press allowances towards the central part, serge. Topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the seam.
10. Press the inner allowance of the hood facing to the wrong side. Place the facing with the hood right sides together and stitch the outer edge. Clip allowances.
11. Attach the hood to the garment neckline, positioning the neckline edge between the hood and the facing. Press allowances, serge. Turn the facing to the wrong side, topstitch onto the hood.
12. Serge the allowances of the upper sleeve seam separately. Stitch the upper seam from the sleeve cap to the mark. Press allowances towards the upper sleeve part, serge, and topstitch 0.5 – 0.7 cm from the seam. Stitch the lower sleeve seam, press allowances and serge. Set sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
13. Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the short sides. Start stitching strictly at the marked line for attaching the cuff to the sleeve. Turn the cuff right side out and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Fold the inner side of the cuff under and topstitch into the attachment seam.
14. Install snaps on the front placket, cuffs, flaps. Thread the cord through the casing, secure the eyelets.