Waistcoat with Lapels and Double Welt Pockets

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.

• From main fabric:
  • Center back part – 2 pieces
  • Side back part – 2 pieces
  • Side front part – 2 pieces
  • Center front part – 2 pieces
  • Undercollar - 1 piece
  • Top collar – 1 piece
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Pocket frame – 2 pieces
• From lining fabric:
  • Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Small pocket bag - 2 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Top collar - 1 piece
  • Pocket frame – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! TRY TO OBSERVE THE GRAIN LINE DIRECTION.

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. On the front piece, along the lapel roll line, apply a 1 cm wide stay tape (from fusible interfacing).
2. On the back piece, stitch the darts. Press the dart allowances towards the center. Stitch the princess seams on the back. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the allowances and press them to the left side.
3. Stitch the princess seams on the front piece. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the center.
4. Mark the pocket placement with parallel lines. Fold the pocket frame in half, wrong sides together, and press. Mark auxiliary lines on the pocket frame for stitching parallel to the fold. Stitch the large pocket bag to the upper line. Stitch the pocket frame to the lower line. Cut the front piece in the middle between the stitching lines. At a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the end of the pocket, make diagonal cuts. Turn the pocket frame through the opening to the wrong side, straighten the edges. Secure the pocket corners from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the small pocket bag into the seam of the pocket frame attachment. Stitch the pocket bag edges, overlock the allowances.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the vest. Overlock the allowances and press them towards the back.
6. Place the top collar and undercollar right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Trim the seams at the corners, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, straighten and press.
7. Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Overlock the outer edge.
8. Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch that defines the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seams at the corners. Topstitch the front edge seam allowance: in the button placket area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front piece. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
9. Stitch the undercollar into the vest neckline, and the top collar into the neckline edge of the back facing and front facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
10. Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding with the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the allowances and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
11. Overlock the bottom edge. Stitch the bottom corner with the front facing. Fold the hem allowance inwards and topstitch.
12. On the right front piece, make buttonholes, and on the left front piece, sew on buttons.