Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 2 pieces
  • Back yoke – 2 pieces
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Side front – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Center front – 2 pieces
  • Front facing – 2 pieces
  • Back neckline facing – 1 piece
  • Fly facing lining – 1 piece
• From lining fabric:
  • Back lining – 2 pieces
  • Front lining – 2 pieces
  • Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Pocket bag – 2 pieces
  • Fly facing lining – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! TRY TO OBSERVE THE GRAIN LINE DIRECTION.

1. Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
2. Stitch the center back seam, press allowances open. Attach the yoke to the back, press allowances towards the yoke.
3. Place the pocket bag on the front piece, right sides together, and stitch around the pocket opening. Turn the pocket bag to the wrong side, press.
4. Place the front piece onto the side front piece and stitch the princess seams simultaneously with the pocket bag seams.
5. Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press allowances open.
6. Mark the fly opening with three lines on the right front facing's right side: the first line is parallel to the front edge and 1.5 cm from the finished front edge; the second and third lines define the length of the opening. Place the interfaced lining on the right side of the front facing, face down, moving from the front edge, aligning the lining's edge with the marked line. Stitch 0.5 cm from the marked line along the fly opening up to the lines defining its length. Place the second fly lining flush with the first lining's stitching line and stitch 0.5 cm away. Check the correctness of the lining attachment from the wrong side (stitches should be parallel). Cut open the hole. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the fly opening. Turn the linings through the opening to the wrong side, forming a frame from the interfaced lining equal to the width between the stitches. Stitch a securing seam into the lining attachment seam. Press the second lining towards the inner edge of the front facing and stitch a securing seam 0.1 cm from the lining attachment seam. Mark and overcast buttonholes. Buttonholes are made on the front facing together with the interfaced lining. Straighten and secure the ends of the fly from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base of the corners. Stitch the lining edges. Place bar tacks between each pair of buttonholes, the length of the bar tack equals the width of the frame. Press the front facing.
7. Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and the back neckline facing, press allowances open. Stitch the center collar seam, press allowances open. Attach the integrated collar to the neckline, clipping the allowance at the corner. Clip and press allowances open.
8. Place the front facings on the garment, right sides together, and stitch the front edges, collar edge, and lower front corner. Clip allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn pieces right side out. Topstitch along the front edge and collar 0.5-0.7 cm from the edge.
9. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve, press allowances open. Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Attach shoulder pads and sleeve head rolls.
10. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch seams and set sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press lining allowances.
11. Attach the lining to the front facings and neckline facing, press allowances. Turn the garment right side out, straighten seams.
12. Mark and press the lower hem allowance to the wrong side. Finish the lower hem with the lining. Turn the garment right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Finish the lower sleeve hem with the lining. Stitch the technical opening closed.
13. Sew buttons onto the left front piece.