Collarless Lapel Coat
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a chic, collarless coat featuring a sophisticated lapel front and artful paneling for a flattering silhouette.
When To Wear
This coat is a versatile layering piece, perfect for:
- Professional Settings: Elevates office attire with a refined, contemporary layer.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: Ideal for adding polish to everyday outfits or social events.
- Transitional Weather: Offers comfortable coverage as a stylish outerwear piece.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, relaxed fit through the body, falling to a sophisticated mid-thigh length.
Neckline & Front: A collarless V-neckline is elegantly framed by a continuous, folded-back lapel, creating an open and clean front finish.
Closure: Open front design, allowing for versatile layering and showcasing your ensemble.
Sleeves: Full-length, straight set-in sleeves provide classic coverage and a clean arm line.
Pockets: No visible pockets, maintaining a sleek and uncluttered profile.
Back: Features horizontal paneling, artfully dividing the upper and lower back sections for subtle shaping and visual interest.
Hem: A straight hemline finishes neatly at mid-thigh.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise panel seaming, dart construction, and detailed lapel & facing assembly.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight woven fabrics with some body to maintain the coat's structured silhouette:
- Bouclé
- Tweed
- Wool blends
- Textured wovens
Additional Supplies
CUTTER'S MUST
IF THE PATTERNS HAVE A DOUBLE CONTOUR, THEY INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. IF THE CONTOUR IS SINGLE, THE PATTERNS DO NOT INCLUDE SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! FIRST, PRINT OUT THE PAPER PATTERNS AND LAY THEM OUT ON THE FABRIC WIDTH (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) TO DETERMINE HOW MUCH MATERIAL YOU WILL NEED.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part - 1 piece on fold
- Lower back part – 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 2 pieces
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From fusible interfacing:
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
WHEN STITCHING PIECES, PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTCHES - THEY MUST MATCH! TRY TO OBSERVE THE GRAIN LINE DIRECTION.
- Stitch the upper and lower back parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch darts on the upper front parts, press depths upwards. Stitch the upper and lower front parts, press seam allowances upwards and overcast.
- Stitch side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment seam line. Clip seam allowances at curves. Turn collar right side out, straighten and press.
- Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Overcast the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Clip seam allowances at curves. Stitch the bottom corner. Turn front facings right side out, straighten seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline of the back facing and front facing. Press open collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams. Attach the front facing to the seam joining the upper and lower front parts.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press seam allowances and overcast. Set sleeves into armholes, press seam allowances and overcast.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment and sleeves, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
