Flap Pocket Collared Pencil Dress
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a button-front pencil dress, featuring a sharp notched collar, a precisely fitted silhouette, and practical flap pockets.
When To Wear
This versatile pencil dress is suitable for a range of occasions, offering a polished and professional look:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear, business meetings, or formal presentations where a tailored appearance is key.
- Smart Casual Events: Perfect for brunches, daytime gatherings, or refined social engagements that call for elegant styling.
- Elevated Everyday Wear: A stylish choice for daily wear when a structured and put-together ensemble is desired.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A tailored pencil silhouette, closely fitted through the bodice and waist, with a straight skirt falling to the knee.
Neckline & Collar: Features a classic notched lapel collar, creating a refined V-neckline when buttoned.
Closure: A sophisticated button-front closure extends down the bodice, complemented by a center back invisible zipper for ease of wear.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves finished with a shaped cuff, designed to be worn rolled up for a chic effect as shown.
Pockets: Two functional flap pockets are strategically placed on the front skirt, adding a touch of utility and style.
Back: A clean center back seam incorporates an invisible zipper closure and a walking vent at the hem for comfortable movement.
Waist: Defined and contoured through precise seaming, including front princess seams and back darts, for a flattering, hourglass fit.
Length: A sophisticated knee-length, perfect for a professional or elegant daytime look.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in collar and lapel construction, setting sleeves, inserting an invisible zipper, and creating flap pockets.
Fabric Recommendations
Select medium to heavy-weight woven fabrics with some body to maintain the dress's structured silhouette:
- Tweed
- Suiting fabrics (e.g., wool blends, gabardine)
- Heavy cotton twill or broadcloth
- Linen blends with good body
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Invisible zipper
- 6 buttons
CUTTER'S MUST
From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Upper center front part – 2 pieces
- Upper side front part – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lower back part - 2 pieces
- Lower front part – 1 piece on fold
- Upper sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve part – 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
From fusible interfacing:
- Center front part – 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Collar – 1 piece
- Back neckline facing — 1 piece
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Also, fuse interfacing to the area of the lower back part near the slit mark.
- Stitch darts on the upper and lower back parts, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the upper and lower back parts together. Overlock allowances and press down. Overlock the center back edges separately. Stitch the center back seam from the top to the zipper mark and from the second zipper mark to the slit mark. Press allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch a reinforcing line along the slit 0.2 cm from the edge.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front, overlock allowances and press towards the center. Stitch darts on the lower front part, press allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the dress, overlock allowances and press open.
- Place the upper collar on the lower collar, right sides together, and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end the stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim seams at corners, clip at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and back neckline facing, press allowances open. Overlock the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and lapel. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of the collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Topstitch the allowance of the front edge seam: in the zipper area – onto the front facing, in the lapel area – onto the front edge of the front. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, shape the seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the neckline of the main garment, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and front facings. Press the collar attachment seam allowances open and secure close to the seams.
- Place the flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and bottom edges. Trim allowances, turn the flap right side out, and press. Overlock the pocket piece along the contour. Fold the upper edge inwards and topstitch. Press the pocket allowances to the wrong side. Place the pocket on the lower front part and topstitch. Attach the flap to the front along the upper pocket marking line (the finished edge is directed towards the neckline).
- Place the right front over the left front, aligning the center lines and secure at the lower edge. Attach the lower front part to the upper part. Overlock the allowance and press down.
- Stitch the side seams. Overlock allowances and press towards the back.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Overlock allowances. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve. Overlock allowances. Set the sleeve into the armhole, overlock allowances.
- Overlock the bottom edge of the garment. Fold allowances to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
- Place the cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the long and short sides, starting and ending the stitching strictly at the marked cuff attachment line. Trim corners, turn the cuff right side out, and press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, aligning the mark with the front seam. Fold the allowance of the inner side inwards and stitch into the attachment seam. Fold the cuff upwards.
- Make buttonholes on the front and flaps. Sew on buttons.
