Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
  • Back – 1 piece on fold
  • Front – 1 piece
  • Slit facing – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 2 pieces
  • Sleeve – 2 pieces
  • Cuff – 4 pieces
• From fusible interfacing:
  • Slit facing – 1 piece
  • Collar stand – 1 piece
  • Cuff – 2 pieces

Sewing Instructions

1. Interface the designated pieces with fusible interfacing.
2. Serge the outer edge of the slit facing. Place the facing on the front piece, right sides together, and stitch with two parallel lines 0.5 cm to the right and left of the slit line. Cut the front piece and facing along the slit line. Make diagonal cuts 1-1.5 cm from the end of the stitching lines. Turn the facing to the wrong side through the opening, and straighten the edges. Secure the corner from the wrong side with a double backstitch at the base.
3. Fold and stitch the pleat on the front piece from the wrong side for 1.5-2.0 cm according to the markings.
4. Stitch the bust darts, press the seam allowances upwards.
5. Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and serge.
6. Place the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and ends, starting and ending the stitching exactly at the collar stand attachment line. Clip the seam allowances at the curves, trim at the corners, turn the collar stand to the right side, and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline, fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand, and topstitch into the attachment seam.
7. Along the upper part of the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Serge the sleeve edges separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press the seam allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the seam allowances and serge.
8. Place the cuff pieces right sides together and stitch the side and bottom edges. Start and end the stitching exactly at the marked cuff attachment seam line. Turn the piece to the right side, and press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve, fold the seam allowance of the inner cuff inwards, and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
9. Press the hem of the garment to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
10. Make buttonholes on the collar stand, placket, and cuffs. Sew on buttons.