CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Center back – 2 pieces
- Side back – 2 pieces
- Side front – 2 pieces
- Center front – 2 pieces
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Under collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Upper collar – 1 piece
- Front facing – 2 pieces
- Back neck facing – 1 piece
- Lapel – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces.
- Stitch the back princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast. Stitch the center back seam, press seam allowances to the left side and overcast.
- Stitch the front princess seams, press seam allowances towards the center and overcast.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams, press seam allowances towards the back and overcast.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing. Overcast the outer edge.
- Place the upper collar on the under collar, right sides together, and stitch the outer edge and the collar stand. Trim the seams at the corners, turn right side out, shape, and press the collar. Place the lapels in pairs, right sides together, and stitch the lapel stand and outer edge. Clip the seam allowance at the notch of the lapel stand, turn the lapel right side out, shape, and press. Stitch the gorge seam: upper collar to upper lapel, under collar to under lapel. Press seams open. Secure seam allowances together close to the stitching line.
- Attach the collar with lapel to the neckline of the dress.
- Place the front facing with the back neck facing onto the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch the front edge, front neckline, back neckline, and bottom of the dress. Stitching is done from the front side. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge to the front facing. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, and shape the seams.
- Cut (if not ready-made) a bias binding 4 cm wide and a length equal to the armhole length + 6 cm. Fold the bias binding in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Place the binding onto the armhole edge, right sides together, and stitch. Fold the binding to the wrong side, clip the seam allowances, and topstitch along the fold onto the main piece. Press the seam.
- Overcast the bottom edge of the garment, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons. Sew on the inner button.
