CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 2 pieces on fold
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lining fabric pieces are cut according to the main fabric pieces, subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and front facing.
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front, front facing, back neckline facing, waistband.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the designated pieces. Along the back neckline and the sleeve hem, apply an additional fusible stay tape.
- Along the lower edge of the front piece, between the marks, stitch with a loosened upper thread and gather.
- Stitch the darts on the back, press the fullness towards the center. Stitch the center back seam. Press the seam allowance open.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press the seam allowances open.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the elbow seam open, press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches, easing the sleeve cap at the top. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the lining pieces similarly to the main fabric pieces. Attach the lining to the facing and front facing.
- Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Place the jacket and lining right sides together, pin, aligning the outer edges. Stitch the lining to the jacket along the front opening and neckline. Turn the jacket right side out.
- Fold the waistband pieces right sides together and stitch along the lower edge and the front opening edge. Trim seam allowances at corners and turn right side out. Attach the outer waistband to the bottom of the jacket, pressing the seam allowance downwards. Fold the seam allowance of the inner waistband inwards and topstitch into the seam.
- Make buttonholes and sew on buttons.
