CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front - 1 piece on fold
- Collar stand – 4 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar stand – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Interface the designated pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the darts on the back pieces, press the dart allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the bust darts, press the dart allowances upwards. Stitch the waist darts on the front piece, press the dart allowances towards the center.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
- Place the collar stand pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper and center front edges, starting and ending the stitching precisely at the collar stand attachment line. Clip the allowances at curves, trim at corners, turn the collar stand right side out, and press. Attach the outer collar stand to the neckline. Clip the neckline allowance of the front piece and press the allowances towards the collar stand.
- Serge the center back seam allowance separately on each piece. Stitch the center back seam from the zipper mark to the slit mark. Press the center seam allowances open. Insert the zipper. Topstitch the slit allowances 0.2 cm from the edge. Fold under the raw edge of the inner collar stand and topstitch into the attachment seam. Hand-stitch the center back edges of the inner collar stand to the zipper tape.
- Along the upper part of the sleeve cap, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Along the lower edge of the sleeve, stitch with a loosened thread and gather. Serge the sleeve seams separately. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press the allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Set the sleeves into the armholes, press the allowances and serge.
- Cut the elastic cord according to the number of buttons. Form and attach the loop closures to the right side of the outer cuff. Place the cuff pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and lower edges. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked cuff attachment line. Turn the piece right side out, and press. Attach the outer cuff to the sleeve, fold under the allowance of the inner cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam of the outer cuff.
- Serge the bottom edge of the garment, press towards the wrong side and topstitch.
- Sew buttons onto the cuffs according to the marks.
