Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Silk SATIN or heavy SATIN, thin TULLE (preferably two shades, e.g., milky and creamy white). Also needed: ZIPPER; FUSIBLE INTERFACING; metal or plastic BONING; ready-made underskirt of stiff TULLE, LACE TRIM 1.5-2 cm wide. For finishing: LACE TRIM 1.5-2 cm wide is needed to cover seams. Also, SATIN BIAS BINDING is needed for the "BONING".
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From main fabric:
- Upper back part – 2 pieces
- Back waistband — 1 piece
- Lower back part — 1 piece on fold
- Upper front part — 2 pieces
- Front waistband — 1 piece
- Lower front part — 1 piece on fold
- Cuff — 2 pieces
- Collar — 2 pieces
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From chiffon:
- Sleeve — 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar — 1 piece
- Front facing — 2 pieces
- Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Cuff — 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match! Try to observe the GRAIN LINE direction.
- Interface the pieces with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch darts on the upper back pieces, press allowances towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the upper back, press allowances to the left side and serge. Attach the back waistband to the upper part, press allowances onto the waistband and serge.
- Form and secure pleats on the lower back piece (depths directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower back pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Form and secure pleats on the upper front pieces (depths directed towards the center).
- Fold collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Start and end stitching strictly at the marked collar attachment line. Trim allowances at corners, clip at the mark. Turn collar right side out, shape and press.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press allowances towards the back and serge. Stitch and press open shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Serge the outer edge.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front piece, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge. Stitch upwards to the notch indicating the end of collar attachment. Trim seams at corners. Turn front edges right side out, shape seams.
- Attach the lower collar to the dress neckline, and the upper collar to the back facing and front facing neckline. Clip collar attachment seam allowances, press open and secure close to the seams.
- Overlap the right front piece over the left and secure along the lower edge. Attach the front waistband to the upper part, press allowances onto the waistband and serge.
- Form and secure pleats on the lower front piece (depths directed towards the center). Stitch the upper and lower front pieces, press allowances upwards and serge.
- Serge the left side edges separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the first mark and from the second mark to the bottom, press allowances open. Insert the zipper. Stitch the right side seam, press allowances towards the back and serge.
- Serge sleeve edges separately. Along the lower edge, stitch with loosened upper thread and gather. Stitch the sleeve seam from the armhole to the slit mark, press allowances open. Topstitch the slit 0.1 cm from the fold. Attach sleeves into armholes, press allowances and serge.
- Fold the cuff in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch side edges. Turn the piece right side out, press. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, fold the allowance of the inner side of the cuff inwards and topstitch into the seam of the outer cuff attachment.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the cuffs, sew on buttons. Sew decorative buttons on the front waistband.
