Fabric & Materials
Fabric recommendations: Silk SATIN or heavy SATIN, thin TULLE (preferably two shades, e.g., milky and creamy white). Also needed: ZIPPER; FUSIBLE INTERFACING; metal or plastic BONING; ready-made underskirt of stiff TULLE, LACE TRIM 1.5-2 cm wide. For finishing: LACE TRIM 1.5-2 cm wide is needed to cover seams. Also, SATIN BIAS BINDING is needed for the "BONING".
CUTTER'S MUST
If the patterns have a double contour, they include SEAM ALLOWANCES. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include SEAM ALLOWANCES. SEAM ALLOWANCES: All seams - 1 cm. ATTENTION! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width should be at least 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need.
- From SATIN:
- FRONT SKIRT HALF – 1 piece
- BACK SKIRT HALF – 2 pieces
- FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL FACING – 4 pieces
- PLASTRON – 1 piece
- TRIM STRIP 1, TRIM STRIP 2, TRIM STRIP 3 – 2 pieces
- From TULLE:
- FLOUNCE 1 - the number of pieces will be indicated on the piece. (For example, qty-57. For ease of cutting, we recommend folding the TULLE in several layers.)
- FLOUNCE 2 - the number of pieces will be indicated on the piece. (For example, qty-59. For ease of cutting, we recommend folding the TULLE in several layers.)
- LOWER FLOUNCE of FRONT SKIRT HALF – 1 piece
- LOWER FLOUNCE of BACK SKIRT HALF – 2 pieces
- All BODICE pieces
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL FACING – 4 pieces
- PLASTRON – 1 piece
- TRIM STRIP 1, TRIM STRIP 2, TRIM STRIP 3 – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
When stitching pieces, pay attention to the NOTCHES - they must match! Try to observe the GRAIN LINE direction.
- All FRONT PANEL pieces consist of 3 layers of TULLE (for less transparency and density). It is advisable to choose thin and not very stiff TULLE.
- All BODICE seams should be covered on both sides (internal and external) with SATIN BIAS BINDING, into which metal or plastic BONING shorter than the seam length by 2 cm is then inserted (for ease of processing).
- For less transparency, SATIN TRIM STRIPS are stitched onto the MIDDLE PART of the FRONT PANEL and the CENTRAL PART of the BACK PANEL (along the lines on the pattern). LACE TRIM is stitched onto the side panels along the curved lines.
- All BODICE seams are additionally covered with LACE TRIM on top.
- The top layer of the TULLE skirt. It consists of the upper part of the skirt, onto which FLOUNCES are stitched along the marked lines. Also, a LOWER FLOUNCE, which is gathered and attached to the lower edge of the upper part of the skirt.
- FLOUNCE 2 (smaller) is stitched along the lines, starting from the skirt-BODICE seam line up to the 6th skirt line. Then only the larger FLOUNCE 1 is stitched.
- FLOUNCES are cut without SEAM ALLOWANCES. Cut the FLOUNCE along the "cut" line, open it, and stitch it onto the skirt only along the inner diameter, one after another, leaving all square ends free (see photo).
