Men's Tailored Shirt With Chest Pocket

Sewing Instructions

1. Reinforce the left FRONT PANEL placket, the right FRONT PANEL underlap, the inner COLLAR stand, and the outer COLLAR piece with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacing is pressed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron); similarly, reinforce the outer CUFF pieces with two layers of FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Press the pocket top hem allowance to the inside, turn under the raw edge, and stitch along the edge.
3. Embroider the emblem on the pocket.
4. Press the open edges of the pocket to the inside and stitch the pocket to the left FRONT PANEL according to the markings.
5. Press the right FRONT PANEL hem allowance to the wrong side along the solid line, turn under the raw edge, and stitch along the edge.
6. Press the left FRONT PANEL placket hem allowance to the wrong side of the piece along the outermost solid line, insert the hem allowance raw edge into the pleat, and stitch the pleat according to the markings from the right side; topstitch 7.5 mm from the edge of the placket and press the placket.
7. Stitch the dart from the right side of the BACK PANEL according to the markings, press, and baste along the edges.
8. Place the yokes right sides together, insert the top of the BACK PANEL between them, aligning the notches, turn right side out, press, and topstitch.
9. Similarly, stitch the yoke to the FRONT PANELS.
10. Execute the "SLEEVE Slit" - Pin the slit FACING right side to the wrong side of the SLEEVE according to the markings and stitch along the edge.
11. Cut the fabric along the slit line and finish the open edge with a machine-stitched hem.
12. Make NOTCHES in the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the base of the slit and turn half the width of the FACING to the right side of the garment.
13. Fold under the open edges of the FACING and topstitch along the edge to the SLEEVE.
14. Set the SLEEVE into the armhole, aligning the notches, and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the armhole; trim the armhole SEAM ALLOWANCES to 5 mm, wrap them with the SLEEVE cap SEAM ALLOWANCES, press towards the armhole, and stitch along the edge to the main garment.
15. Stitch the side and SLEEVE seams in one step using a "French Seam" - Place the pieces right sides together and stitch.
16. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES back, trim half the width of the lower SEAM ALLOWANCE, fold under the upper one, and topstitch along the edge to the main garment with a double decorative stitch.
17. Execute the "COLLAR with Stand" - Reinforce one COLLAR stand piece and one COLLAR piece with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
18. Place both COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour; turn right side out, press, and topstitch.
19. Place both COLLAR stand pieces right sides together, insert the COLLAR between the upper raw edges according to the markings, placing the reinforced COLLAR stand piece on the reinforced COLLAR piece, and stitch, continuing the stitching along the extensions for the closure.
20. Adjust the COLLAR, press the open edges of the COLLAR stand to the inside, insert the neckline between them, and stitch along the edge, continuing the topstitching along the upper seam of the COLLAR stand, topstitch 7 mm from the edge of the COLLAR.
21. Form pleats at the bottom of the SLEEVE according to the markings, press in the indicated direction, and baste along the edges.
22. Place the reinforced CUFF piece with the unreinforced piece right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, and create the "CUFF".
23. Turn right side out.
24. Place the CUFF, with the reinforced piece, onto the lower edge of the SLEEVE right sides together and stitch; adjust the CUFF, press the open edge to the inside, and topstitch to the main garment along the previous seam, topstitching 7 mm around the entire perimeter; add an additional topstitch 1.5 cm from the seam attaching the CUFF to the SLEEVE.
25. Finish the bottom of the shirt with a machine-stitched hem.
26. Make buttonholes on the left FRONT PANEL, COLLAR stand, and CUFFS according to the markings.
27. Sew on the buttons.