Fabric & Materials
FUSIBLE INTERFACING is ironed onto the upper COLLAR and FACINGS of the pocket. Note: If you are sewing a jacket from plaid fabric, pin the pieces to the fabric, ensuring the plaid matches at the SEAM ALLOWANCES.
CUTTER'S MUST
- BACK PANEL - 1 piece on fold
- FRONT PANEL - 2 pieces
- Yoke - 1 piece
- Upper SLEEVE part - 2 pieces
- Lower SLEEVE part - 2 pieces
- Upper COLLAR - 1 piece on fold
- Pocket stay - 2 pieces
- Pocket FACING - 2 pieces
- Lower COLLAR - 1 piece on fold
- For the LINING pattern, use the BACK PANEL, adding 1 cm along the center line for a ease pleat, the FRONT PANEL, excluding the front edge section; both SLEEVE parts; pocket bags; shorten the jacket LINING at the bottom by 2 cm.
Sewing Instructions
- Reinforce the upper COLLAR and pocket FACINGS with FUSIBLE INTERFACING (Heat-activated interfacings are ironed onto the wrong side of the piece with a hot iron).
- Place the pocket stay wrong side down onto the right side of the inner pocket bag, turn under the bottom edge and stitch along the edge; baste the pocket stay to the pocket bag along the remaining edges.
- On each FRONT PANEL, create a "Welt pocket with one FACING" - Pin the FACING and pocket bag made of LINING fabric, turned downwards, according to the markings on the right side of the main garment.
- Pin the pocket bag with the pocket stay, turned upwards, and stitch at a distance of 5 mm on both sides of the marking.
- Cut the fabric in the center between the stitches, tapering to the ends of the stitches, turn the pocket bags to the wrong side of the garment and fold the FACING by 2 cm.
- Topstitch the free edge of the FACING with a zigzag stitch to the corresponding pocket bag.
- Fold both pocket bags, align and stitch along the contour.
- From the wrong side, stitch the ends of the FACING to the triangles of the main fabric.
- Place the yoke and BACK PANEL pieces right sides together and stitch; turn right side out, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the yoke and topstitch decoratively at 5 mm.
- Similarly, stitch the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Stitch the upper and lower SLEEVE parts, press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the upper SLEEVE part and topstitch decoratively at 5 mm.
- Set the SLEEVE into the armhole, matching the NOTCHES and pre-shrinking the SLEEVE cap according to the markings.
- Place the upper and lower COLLARS right sides together, stitch along the outer edges, turn right side out, press and topstitch decoratively at 5 mm; baste the COLLARS along the open edges.
- Place the COLLAR, turned downwards, on the right side of the main garment, matching the NOTCHES with the shoulder SEAM ALLOWANCES, and baste.
- Stitch the LINING pieces similarly to the main garment and stitch the front facings.
- Place the LINING and the main garment right sides together and stitch along the neckline, attaching the COLLAR, along the front edges and the bottom; turn right side out and press.
- Press the hem of the SLEEVE bottom inwards and stitch along the edge.
- Turn under the bottom of the SLEEVE LINING and sew to the SLEEVE hem with blind stitches.
- Press the hem of the jacket bottom inwards and stitch along the edge.
- Make buttonholes on the left FRONT PANEL according to the markings.
- Sew on buttons.
