CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- Upper BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- Lower BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL insert – 1 QTY
- Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- Side upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- Lower FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE placket – 2 QTY
- BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 2 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- Center FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- Side upper FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- BACK PANEL neckline FACING – 2 QTY
- Vent – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE placket – 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch darts on the upper BACK PANEL, lower BACK PANEL, and lower FRONT PANEL pieces. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL respectively.
- Serge the upper edge of the FRONT PANEL insert. Fold the SEAM ALLOWANCE inwards and topstitch. Fold the FRONT PANEL trim pieces right sides together and stitch along the two outer edges. Turn right side out, trimming the corner, and press. Stitch the upper center FRONT PANEL to the LINING along the outer edge, inserting the FRONT PANEL insert between them. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the side upper FRONT PANEL and LINING along the outer edge, inserting the center piece (with LINING) between them. Then, treat the FRONT PANEL with LINING as one piece.
- Stitch the upper and lower FRONT PANEL pieces. Serge and press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards. Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANEL pieces. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge.
- On the left lower BACK PANEL, cut 5 cm along the vertical edge of the vent. On both lower BACK PANEL pieces, reinforce the vent with FUSIBLE INTERFACING on the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Press the left part along the vent fold line; on the right part, press only the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the right side of the vent (6 cm) to the wrong side. Align the pieces along the center seam and secure at the upper edge of the vent. Serge the center edge of the BACK PANEL separately on each piece. Serge the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the center edge of the BACK PANEL from the ZIPPER NOTCH to the vent corner. Clip the vent SEAM ALLOWANCE corner on the right part. Press the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES open, press the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES, and secure them with machine stitching. Insert the ZIPPER from the upper edge to the NOTCH.
- Stitch the BACK PANEL neckline with the FACING, starting and ending the stitch precisely at the marked shoulder seam line. Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Stitch the shoulder edges, inserting the FRONT PANEL between the BACK PANEL and the BACK PANEL FACING. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL, serge. Turn the FACING to the wrong side. Stitch the side edges. Serge and press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL.
- Fold the lower edge of the SLEEVE twice by 1 cm and topstitch. Vent processing: Cut the SLEEVE along the marked line, clipping the corner at the upper part of the cut. Fold the section from the cut to the marked line, measuring 1.7 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the placket in half lengthwise right sides together and stitch the corner up to the transverse mark and stitch the lower edge. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES close to the stitching; at the end of the stitching, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE. Turn the placket right side out, press, and topstitch along the fold line from the bottom to the transverse mark at 0.1 cm. Fold the placket with the SLEEVE right sides together and attach the inner side along the marked line. At the end of the stitching, clip the SLEEVE transversely from the cut to the attachment line. Fold the placket to the right side, fold the open edge, and attach. Align the placket with the marked line on the SLEEVE and topstitch the upper corner along the contour and along the transverse mark.
- Stitch and serge the SLEEVE edges. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the cap. Serge and press SEAM ALLOWANCES.
- Serge the lower edge of the garment. Fold to the wrong side, press, and topstitch.
