CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Upper center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 2. Upper side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 3. Lower center BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 4. Lower side BACK PANEL - 2 QTY
- 5. Upper center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 6. Upper side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 7. Lower center FRONT PANEL - 1 QTY
- 8. Lower side FRONT PANEL - 2 QTY
- 9. SLEEVE - 2 QTY
- 10. Bridge - 1 QTY
- From crepe satin:
- 1. COLLAR – 2 QTY
- 2. Lapel – 4 QTY
- From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
- 1. COLLAR – 1 QTY
- 2. Lapel – 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the lower COLLAR and lapels.
- Stitch darts on the upper BACK PANEL pieces. Press dart fullness towards the center. Stitch the center seam of the upper BACK PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES to the left and serge.
- Stitch the princess seams on the upper BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge.
- Stitch shoulder seams, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge.
- Serge the upper edge of the upper center FRONT PANEL, press to the wrong side and topstitch. Along the center seam, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Press the bridge crosswise with the right side out. Attach the bridge to one of the center FRONT PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the FRONT PANEL and serge. Attach the bridge to the other center FRONT PANEL, trying to align with the existing seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the FRONT PANEL and serge.
- Place the upper and lower COLLARs right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and gorge line. Clip the seam near the “o” NOTCH. Turn the COLLAR right side out and press. Place lapel pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer edge and gorge line up to the NOTCH. Clip the seam near the gorge NOTCH, turn the lapels right side out and press. Attach the upper and lower COLLAR separately to the lapels along the break line. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES open.
- Place the finished COLLAR with lapels with the upper part of the dress and stitch: from the lower edge of the upper side FRONT PANEL to the “o-” NOTCH, then clip the upper COLLAR, fold back and stitch only the lower COLLAR into the neckline up to the “o-” NOTCH on the other FRONT PANEL. Clip the upper COLLAR SEAM ALLOWANCE and from the NOTCH, stitch both COLLARs again.
- Along the princess seam of the upper center FRONT PANEL, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the upper center FRONT PANEL to the side from the bottom to the “o-” NOTCH (the lapel is between them). Clip SEAM ALLOWANCES, press towards the side seam and serge.
- Press the COLLAR attachment SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the COLLAR. Turn under the open inner edge of the COLLAR and topstitch into the COLLAR attachment seam. Secure the COLLAR and lapels along the break line. Topstitch along the COLLAR and lapel.
- On both lower center BACK PANEL pieces, fuse the vent from the wrong side. On the right side, mark the center seam line (vent fold line). Serge the center seam of the BACK PANEL separately on each piece, serging the vent simultaneously. Stitch the center seam of the BACK PANEL from the upper edge to the vent edge. Clip the corner of the vent seam allowance on the right piece. Press the center seam SEAM ALLOWANCES, pressing the vent. Press the right side of the vent 1 cm to the wrong side and topstitch. Press the vent SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the left side and topstitch along the top with a machine stitch.
- Stitch the princess seams on the lower BACK PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge. Stitch the princess seams on the lower FRONT PANEL, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center and serge.
- Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES upwards and serge. Stitch the upper and lower FRONT PANELs, press SEAM ALLOWANCES downwards and serge.
- Stitch the right side seam, press SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and serge. Serge the left side seams separately. Stitch the left side seam from the armhole to the upper NOTCH and from the lower NOTCH to the hem. Insert the ZIPPER between the NOTCHES.
- Stitch the SLEEVE seam. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge. Set the SLEEVEs into the armhole, aligning the NOTCHES. Press SEAM ALLOWANCES and serge. Serge the lower edge of the SLEEVE, press to the wrong side and topstitch.
- Serge the hem allowance of the dress, press to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches.
