High Ruffle Collar Pintuck Front Button Blouse
A hip-length women's blouse with a high stand collar holding a pleated frill, a pintucked inset below a narrow front yoke, princess seams at front and back and a concealed button placket. Long sleeves with gathered caps, bound openings and cuffs, each with a buttoned flap.
When To Wear
- At the office under a jacket or with a pencil skirt.
- Autumn and winter, with trousers or a skirt, alone or under a sleeveless dress or pinafore.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Semi-fitted, shaped by princess seams at front and back.
Length: Hip length, hem turned under twice by 1 cm and topstitched.
Collar: Interfaced stand collar. A frill strip, hemmed on its upper and side edges and folded into even pleats, is caught between the two stand layers; a small interfaced flap is stitched into the front of the stand and buttons onto it.
Front: Front yoke joined to a front inset with pintucks pressed towards the shoulder seam, set onto centre and side front panels.
Closure: Concealed button placket on the right front, made from a separate, partly interfaced placket folded along two lines; separate left front placket for the buttons.
Sleeves: Long, set-in, with a gathered cap. The opening is finished with a 0.5–0.7 cm bias binding; the lower edge is gathered into a cuff with a stepped cuff placket and an inserted buttoned flap.
Back: Centre back seam and princess seams; no yoke.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Even pintucks, a pleated frill and flap set into a stand collar, a concealed placket and cuffs with stepped plackets and flaps.
Fabric Recommendations
Blouse fabric of natural or blended fibres (cotton, viscose, polyester).
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing (stand collar, collar flap, right front placket, cuffs, cuff plackets, cuff flaps)
- 12 buttons
- Bias strips 18 × 3 cm for the sleeve openings
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, they include seam allowances. If the contour is single, the patterns do not include seam allowances. Seam allowances: Hem allowance – 2 cm, other seams – 1 cm. Attention! First, print out the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (fabric width can be from 90 cm to 150 cm) to determine how much material you will need (don't forget to account for paired and symmetrical pieces). When stitching pieces, pay attention to the notches - they must match!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front Yoke – 2 pieces
- Front Inset – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Left Front Placket – 1 piece
- Right Front Placket – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar Placket – 1 piece
- Stand Collar Flap – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Cuff Placket – 4 pieces
- Cuff Flap – 4 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Cuff Placket – 2 pieces
- Cuff Flap – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar Flap – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the corresponding pieces.
- Place the Stand Collar Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and lower edges. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the flap right side out, shape, and press.
- Serge the upper and side edges of the Stand Collar Placket, press them to the wrong side and topstitch. Fold even pleats on the placket. Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together, insert the placket (from mark to mark) and the flap between them, and stitch along the outer edge and the sides, also stitching the lower edge up to the mark. Clip the seam allowances at the mark. Turn the collar right side out, shape the seams, and press.
- Stitch the back princess seams (Center Back to Side Back), press the allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the center back seam, press the allowances to the left side and serge.
- Fold and stitch the pintucks on the Front Insets. The tucks face towards the shoulder seam.
- Stitch the front princess seams (Center Front to Side Front), press the allowances towards the center and serge. Stitch the Front Yoke to the Front Inset, press the allowances towards the yoke and serge. Stitch the inset to the front, press the allowances towards the front and serge.
- Right front: fuse interfacing to the Right Front Placket from the edge to the "inner placket edge" line on the buttonhole side. Stitch the placket to the front, press the allowances towards the placket. Press the placket to the wrong side along the "front edge" and "concealed placket edge" lines. Topstitch the placket into the joining seam. Fold the inner part of the placket towards the front edge and press. Left front: stitch the Left Front Placket to the front, press the allowances towards the placket. Turn under the inner edge by 1 cm and topstitch into the joining seam.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams, press the allowances towards the back and serge.
- Stitch the outer Stand Collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner Stand Collar and topstitch it into the seam of the outer collar.
- Cut a bias strip 18 × 3 cm for binding the sleeve opening. Mark the opening line on the Sleeve and cut along it. Spread the opening into a straight line and finish it with a bound seam with a closed edge. Binding width 0.5–0.7 cm; seam width along the opening 0.5–0.7 cm, tapering to 0.2 cm at the top of the opening. Stitch and serge the sleeve seams. Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the lower edge of the sleeve and gather.
- Stitch the Cuff Plackets to the Cuff, press the allowances towards the placket. Fold the cuffs in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short side and the placket steps on one side, and the short side and the upper edge up to the mark on the other side. Clip the allowances at the mark. Turn the cuffs right side out and press.
- Place the Cuff Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the side and lower edges. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn the flap right side out, shape, and press.
- Stitch the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve, inserting the flap between them. Turn under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the joining seam.
- Sew a line of long, loose stitches along the upper part of the sleeve cap and gather. Set the sleeves into the armholes. Press the seam and serge.
- Press the hem to the wrong side twice by 1 cm and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the Right Front Placket, the collar, the cuffs, and the flaps. Sew on the buttons to match.
