Cheongsam Style Short Sleeve Sheath Dress

Chinese Style Satin Dress with Mandarin Collar and Decorative Frog Closures

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS

Choose fabrics that support smooth structure and elegant sheen:

• Silk satin fabrics
• Satin woven fabrics with fluid body and soft shine

These materials preserve the refined drape, decorative finish, and luxurious appearance intended for the design.

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

• Fusible interfacing
• Invisible zipper
• Decorative trim
• 3 decorative soutache frog closures
• 3 buttons
• 1 hook and eye closure

CUTTER’S MUST

From Main Fabric:

1. Center Back – 2 pieces
2. Side Back – 2 pieces
3. Front – 1 piece
4. Upper Front – 1 piece
5. Stand Collar – 2 pieces
6. Sleeve – 2 pieces

From Fusible Interfacing:

Lower Stand Collar – 1 piece

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Before cutting your fabric, print and lay out the paper patterns according to your fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine required yardage.

Remember to account for paired and symmetrical pieces.

When sewing, pay close attention to all notches — they must match precisely to ensure correct construction and fit.

Careful pressing and precise seam handling are essential when working with satin fabrics to preserve surface smoothness and prevent marking.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

1. Interfacing

Apply fusible interfacing to the lower Stand Collar.

2. Back

Stitch the center back seam, press the seam allowances toward the left side and overlock.

Stitch the princess seams of the Center Back and Side Back, press the seam allowances toward the center and overlock.

3. Front Darts

Stitch the bust darts on the Front and press downward.

Stitch the waist darts on the Front and press toward the center.

4. Upper Front

Overlock the upper curved edge of the Front and the lower curved edge of the Upper Front.

Tip: to prevent stretching of curved edges, reinforce the stitching lines with fusible web tape.

Place the Front and Upper Front together and stitch the curved seam from the marking to the side edge (the allowance of the lower edge of the Upper Front is wider by 0.5 cm).

Press the seam allowances downward.

Topstitch decorative trim along the curved seam of the Front, turning back the seam allowance of the Upper Front.

5. Shoulder Seams

Stitch the shoulder seams of the dress, press the seam allowances toward the Back and overlock.

6. Side Seams and Zipper

Overlock the seam allowances of the side seams of the Back and Front.

Stitch the left side seam from the top to the zipper marking and from the zipper marking to the slit.

Press the side seam allowances open, press the zipper opening allowances and the lower slit.

Place the zipper under the slit so that the teeth are not visible and stitch in place.

Stitch the right side seam from the top to the notch, press the seam allowances open, pressing the slit.

7. Stand Collar

Place the Stand Collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the upper edge, beginning and ending the stitching exactly at the marked collar attachment line.

Clip seam allowances at the curves, turn the stand collar right side out and press.

Attach the outer stand collar to the neckline, turn under the seam allowance of the inner stand collar and topstitch in the seam of attachment of the outer stand collar.

Topstitch decorative trim onto the stand collar along the upper edge.

8. Sleeves

Stitch the sleeve seams, press the seam allowances and overlock.

Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching notches.

Press the seam allowances and overlock.

Turn the sleeve hem twice to the wrong side and topstitch.

Topstitch decorative trim along the lower edge.

9. Slits and Hem

Topstitch the slit allowances onto the dress.

Turn the hem of the dress twice and topstitch.

10. Closures and Decorative Details

Sew a loop onto the Upper Front between the neckline and the marking, and sew a hook onto the Front.

Sew decorative loops and buttons onto the Front and Upper Front.