3/4 Sleeve Dress Stand Collar Pleated Hem
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a paneled dress, featuring a structured stand collar, a tailored silhouette, and a playful pleated hem.
When To Wear
This elegant dress is versatile for various occasions, offering a polished yet chic look:
- Formal Events & Ceremonies: The structured design and tailored silhouette make it suitable for sophisticated gatherings.
- Office & Business Casual: Its professional lines and modest length are ideal for workplace elegance.
- Special Occasions: The unique neckline and pleated hem add a touch of distinctive style for parties or events.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice and hips, with a pleated flare at the hem.
Neckline & Collar: a distinct square front neckline framed by a grown-on stand collar, finished with facings, creating a sharp and modern look.
Closure: Invisible zipper closure at the center back for a seamless finish.
Sleeves: Straight, set-in sleeves ending at a 3/4 length.
Body Construction: Defined by vertical panel seams from the armholes, with a center front panel and center back panels running uninterrupted to the hem.
Hem: Pleated inserts form the lower part of the skirt on either side of the center front and center back panels, adding movement and texture.
Length: Finishes at an elegant knee length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in assembling multiple panels, creating pleats, finishing a grown-on stand collar with facings, and installing an invisible zipper.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose dress fabrics with some body to maintain the structured silhouette and crisp pleats:
- Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zipper
- Fusible interfacing
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Middle Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Middle Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 1 piece
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Insert – 2 pieces
- Back Facing 1 – 2 pieces
- Back Facing 2 – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Back Facing 1 – 2 pieces
- Back Facing 2 – 2 pieces
- Front Facing – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the facings, and also to the grown-on facing allowance at the upper edge of the Center Front.
- Stitch the Side Back to the Middle Back, press the seam allowances towards the middle panel and overlock. Stitch the Side Front to the Middle Front, press the seam allowances towards the middle panel and overlock. Stitch the side seams, press the seam allowances towards the back and overlock.
- Overlock the lower edge of each Insert, press it to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Fold the pleats along the markings. Stitch the Inserts to the dress, press the seam allowances upwards and overlock.
- Overlock the center back edges. Stitch the center back seam from the upper edge to the upper mark and from the lower mark to the hem; press the seam allowances open. Insert the zipper into the opening. Overlock the lower edge. Also overlock the lower edge of the Center Front.
- Stitch the Center Back to the Middle Back, folding the hem allowance of the Center Back to the right side and wrapping it around the middle panel; press the seam allowances towards the center and overlock. Turn out and straighten the lower corner. Stitch the Center Front to the Middle Fronts from the mark at the upper edge downwards, folding the hem allowance of the Center Front to the right side and wrapping it around the middle panel. Clip the seam allowances at the upper mark, press them towards the center and overlock. Turn out and straighten the lower corner.
- Stitch Back Facing 1 and Back Facing 2 together, press the seam allowances open. Stitch the center back seam of the back facing, press open. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and front facings, press open.
- Place the facing on the dress right sides together and stitch the back and front neckline from mark to mark; clip the seam allowances at the curves. Stitch the grown-on facing of the Center Front to the lower section of the Front Facing and press the seam allowances open in this section. Overlock the outer edge of the facings all around. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten and press. Tack the facing to the seams with a few stitches.
- Stitch the sleeve seam, press the seam allowances towards the back of the sleeve and overlock. Set the Sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches; press the seam allowances and overlock.
- Overlock the lower edge of the sleeves, press it to the wrong side and hem with blind stitches. Also hem the remaining unfinished sections of the dress hem.
