Gathered Yoke Tunic

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. FRONT PANEL - 1 piece on fold
2. BACK PANEL - 1 piece on fold
3. SLEEVE – 2 pieces
4. FRONT PANEL YOKE – 1 piece
5. WELT – 2 pieces
6. POCKET – 2 pieces
7. CUFF – 2 pieces
• From LINING fabric:
1. POCKET BAG – 2 pieces
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
1. WELT – 2 pieces

Tip: Cut pieces from knit fabrics are sewn with a special elastic stitch or directly on a 3- or 4-thread overlock machine. The hem allowance is topstitched with a twin needle or on a coverstitch machine to maintain elasticity.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse the WELTS with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
2. Mark and create pleats on the FRONT PANEL. The inner edges of the pleats should face the center of the FRONT PANEL. Secure the pleats along the upper edge.
3. Attach the FRONT PANEL YOKE to the FRONT PANEL. Serge the seam and press it towards the yoke.
4. Fold the WELT in half lengthwise, right sides out, and press. Fuse the WELT placement area with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Mark a line on the WELT indicating its finished width. Place the WELT right side down on the right side of the pocket, aligning the pocket marking line with the line on the WELT. Place the POCKET BAG on the WELT. Stitch the WELT and POCKET BAG (the POCKET BAG is stitched with two parallel rows of stitches). Cut the pocket opening in the middle between the marking lines, making diagonal cuts towards the corners of the pocket marking. Turn the pocket pieces to the wrong side. Straighten and press the SEAM ALLOWANCES. Stitch the corners of the POCKET BAG and pocket, inserting the WELT between them. Secure the POCKET BAG and LINING along the contour. Fold the rounded edge of the pocket inwards and press. Place the pocket on the FRONT PANEL and topstitch.
5. Stitch the shoulder seams. Serge the seams and press them towards the BACK PANEL. Serge the neckline allowance, fold it inwards, and topstitch.
6. Stitch the side seams. Serge the seams and press them towards the BACK PANEL.
7. Stitch and serge the SLEEVE edges. Along the bottom of the SLEEVE, sew a row of stitches with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Fold the CUFFS right sides together and stitch into a loop. Turn the CUFFS out, press, and fold in half lengthwise. Attach the CUFF to the SLEEVE. Serge the seam and press.
8. Along the SLEEVE cap between the NOTCHES, sew a row of stitches with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Set in the SLEEVES, easing the cap. Serge the seam and press.
9. Serge the bottom of the garment, turn it to the wrong side, and topstitch.