Stand Collar Belted Trench

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL YOKE – 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT PANEL YOKE – 2 QTY
• 3. BACK PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
• 4. BACK PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
• 5. BACK PANEL LOWER – 2 QTY
• 6. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
• 7. FRONT PANEL CENTRAL – 2 QTY
• 8. COLLAR STAND – 2 QTY
• 9. COLLAR – 2 QTY
• 10. OUTER COLLAR – 2 QTY
• 11. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
• 12. FRONT FACING – 2 QTY
• 13. BELT – 1 QTY
• 14. POCKET FRONT – 2 QTY
• 15. POCKET SIDE – 2 QTY
• 16. POCKET FRAME – 2 QTY
• 17. BASQUE – 1 QTY on fold
• 18. BELT LOOP – 1 QTY
• From LINING fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL YOKE – 2 QTY
• 2. FRONT PANEL YOKE – 2 QTY
• 3. BACK PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
• 4. BACK PANEL CENTER – 2 QTY
• 5. BACK PANEL LOWER – 2 QTY
• 6. FRONT PANEL SIDE – 2 QTY
• 7. FRONT PANEL CENTRAL – 2 QTY
• 8. BASQUE – 1 QTY on fold
• 9. POCKET LINING – 2 QTY
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• 1. FRONT FACING – 2 QTY
• 2. BACK NECK FACING – 1 QTY
• 3. COLLAR – 1 QTY
• 4. COLLAR STAND – 1 QTY
• 5. OUTER COLLAR – 1 QTY

ATTENTION: FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL LINING pieces are cut according to the main fabric patterns, subtracting the width of the FRONT FACINGS and BACK NECK FACING respectively. Note: It is permissible to overcast the princess seams and side SEAM ALLOWANCES of the main fabric and LINING from the bottom to the waist.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FRONT FACING, BACK NECK FACING, and COLLARS. Fuse the armhole on the side FRONT PANEL. Apply a 1 cm wide GRAIN LINE tape along the upper SLEEVE edge from the neckline to the bottom of the SLEEVE on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL pieces. Fuse the corners at the armhole and neckline on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL Yokes.
2. Stitch the side and center BACK PANEL pieces, as well as the center BACK PANEL seam. Press seams open. Stitch the BACK PANEL Yokes together, press seam open. Clip the corner on the BACK PANEL YOKE at the start of the armhole. Attach the BACK PANEL YOKE to the main piece. Press seam open. Stitch the lower armhole and SLEEVE cap sections on the BACK PANEL. Press seam towards the SLEEVE.
3. Place the BASQUE and LINING right sides together and stitch along the lower edge. Turn pieces right side out, press. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCES along the lower edge to the LINING. Then treat the BASQUE as a single-layer piece. Create pleats along the upper edge of the BASQUE. The inner folds of the pleats should be directed towards the center back. Secure the pleats along the upper edge.
4. On the lower BACK PANEL, stitch the darts. Press darts towards the center seam. Stitch the center edge of the lower BACK PANEL. Press seam open and overcast. Secure the BASQUE to the lower BACK PANEL along the upper and side edges. Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANEL pieces. Press seam upwards.
5. Attach the side FRONT PANEL pieces to the central ones. Press the princess seam open and overcast. Clip the corner on the FRONT PANEL YOKE at the start of the armhole. Attach the YOKE to the FRONT PANEL. Press seam open. Stitch the lower armhole and SLEEVE cap sections on the FRONT PANEL. Press seam towards the armhole.
6. Pocket. Stitch the POCKET FRAME and POCKET SIDE. Press seam towards the side piece. Form a 1 cm wide POCKET FRAME. Align the fold line of the frame with the center line (marked on the pattern). Press the frame. Stitch a securing line along the seam attaching the frame to the side piece. Similarly, attach the POCKET FRONT. Place the pocket and LINING right sides together and stitch all edges except the side. Turn pieces right side out and press. Sew on buttons. Button placement is marked on the POCKET LINING pattern. Topstitch the pocket according to the markings. Only the front and bottom sides of the pocket are topstitched. The side edge is not topstitched.
7. Stitch the upper SLEEVE edges. Press seams open. Stitch the lower SLEEVE edges and side edges with a single seam. Press seams open and overcast.
8. Place COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch. Clip the seam at the curves, turn the COLLAR right side out and press. Place COLLAR STAND pieces right sides together, insert the COLLAR between them. Stitch only the upper edge of the COLLAR STAND. Turn pieces right side out and press. Place OUTER COLLAR pieces right sides together and stitch. Turn the COLLAR right side out and press. Secure the OUTER COLLAR to the COLLAR STAND along the lower edge. Clip the corner on the FRONT PANEL neckline. Set the COLLAR into the neckline. Set the ends of the COLLAR STAND into the FRONT PANEL neckline. Clip the seam at the curves and press towards the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
9. Stitch the shoulder edges of the BACK NECK FACING and FRONT FACING. Press seams open. Clip the corner on the FRONT FACING neckline.
10. Place the FRONT FACING and FRONT PANEL right sides together and stitch the front edge and neckline. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge from the bottom to the YOKE onto the FRONT FACING. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Attach the lower edge of the FRONT FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline, stopping 1.5 cm before the inner edge of the FRONT FACING. Trim the seam of the lower front corner. Turn the front edge to the right side, straighten the seams. Press the COLLAR and front edges.
11. Overcast one side (long) of the BELT LOOP. Fold the unovercasted edge inwards and cover with the overcasted edge. Stitch two parallel lines 0.1 cm from the edge. Cut the BELT LOOPS. Attach the BELT LOOPS to the side edge.