Hooded Sleeveless Bubble Hem Dress

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
• 1. BACK PANEL – 1 QTY on fold
• 2. FRONT PANEL – 1 QTY on fold
• 3. Front Yoke – 2 QTY
• 4. Back Yoke – 1 QTY
• 5. Hood – 2 QTY
• 6. Hood Placket – 1 QTY
• 7. WELT POCKET – 2 QTY
• 8. Small Pocket Bag – 2 QTY
• 9. Large Pocket Bag – 2 QTY
• 10. Lower Placket – 2 QTY
• 11. Fastening Placket – 4 QTY
• From FUSIBLE INTERFACING:
• 1. Fastening Placket – 2 QTY

Attention! When cutting the FRONT PANEL on the fold, carefully make a slit for the fastening from the upper edge of the FRONT PANEL to the fold line along the outer line, stopping 1.5-2 cm before the single line.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fold the WELT POCKET in half lengthwise and mark the fold line on the right side. Mark 2 more lines: at 2 cm and 5 cm from the fold line. Unfold the WELT POCKET and stitch along the fold line. Then fold the WELT POCKET in half lengthwise again, right side out, and stitch 2 lines along the marked lines. Gather only on the stitch near the edge (5 cm from the fold).
2. Place the small pocket bag with the FRONT PANEL right sides together, insert the WELT POCKET between the pieces. The fold of the WELT POCKET is directed towards the center of the FRONT PANEL. Align the edges and stitch the pieces along the pocket opening line. Clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES, press open, and overcast. Turn the pieces right side out.
3. Gather along the remaining stitches on the WELT POCKET, forming a semicircle from the WELT POCKET. Place the FRONT PANEL with the small pocket bag onto the large pocket bag. Stitch the pocket bags along the outer edge. Overcast and press the seam. Secure the WELT POCKET and the large pocket bag along the side seam.
4. Along the upper edge of the FRONT PANEL, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches and gather. Attach the yokes to the FRONT PANEL. Press the seam towards the yoke and overcast.
5. Interface 2 plackets with FUSIBLE INTERFACING. Fold the plackets in pairs right sides together and stitch: the left placket along the outer edge to the bottom, the right placket – along the outer edge, simultaneously stitching the bottom edge up to the NOTCH (2 cm from the bottom). Seam width 0.7 cm. On the right placket, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the lower NOTCH. Turn the pieces right side out and press. On the FRONT PANEL, strictly according to the marking, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE for the placket at the corners, stopping 1 mm before the seam line. Attach the outer parts of the plackets to the FRONT PANEL, aligning the NOTCHES. Seam width 0.7 cm. Turn the plackets to the right side, straighten and press, pressing the seam towards the placket. Turn the SEAM ALLOWANCE inwards from the wrong side of the plackets and baste. Turn the end of the left placket to the wrong side together with the triangle, leave the end of the right placket on the right side. Topstitch along the placket seams, simultaneously attaching the inner edge. From the wrong side, secure the triangle with the end of the left placket. Topstitch the end of the right placket onto the FRONT PANEL crosswise.
6. On the BACK PANEL, create a box pleat according to the marking. Attach the back yoke to the BACK PANEL. Press the seam towards the yoke and overcast. Stitch the shoulder edges. Press the seams towards the BACK PANEL and overcast.
7. Cut a BIAS BINDING 4 cm wide for finishing the armhole and neckline (if not ready-made). Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise right side out and press. Place the TRIM STRIP with the armhole edge right sides together and stitch. Fold the TRIM STRIP to the wrong side, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCES and topstitch along the fold to the main piece. Press the seam.
8. Stitch the side edges. Press the seams towards the BACK PANEL and overcast.
9. Stitch the hood pieces. Press and overcast the seam.
10. On the hood placket, interface the buttonhole area. Overcast the buttonhole according to the marking. Fold the placket in half lengthwise right side out and press. Unfold the placket, attach the outer edge of the placket to the hood. Press the seam towards the placket. Turn the inner edge of the placket inwards and topstitch into the seam of attaching the outer edge.
11. Fold the BIAS BINDING in half lengthwise right side out and press. Unfold the TRIM STRIP and press the longitudinal edges towards the fold line. Fold the TRIM STRIP in half and press again. Place the hood with the dress along the neckline right sides together. From the FRONT PANEL side, place the BIAS BINDING, unfolded, onto the neckline edge, extending the ends by 2 cm. Insert the hood into the neckline together with the BIAS BINDING. Press the seam towards the hood. Turn the open edge of the BIAS BINDING inwards and topstitch it onto the hood, thereby covering the seam of inserting the hood into the neckline. Previously fold the ends of the BIAS BINDING inwards under the SEAM ALLOWANCE.
12. Fold the lower placket in half lengthwise and mark the fold line on the right side. Mark 4 more lines according to the marking. Unfold the placket and stitch into a ring. Press the seam. Stitch with elastic thread along the fold line, placing the elastic on the wrong side. Then fold the placket in half again right side out and stitch 4 lines with elastic thread along the marked lines. Attach the lower placket to the dress, slightly stretching the placket edge. Press the seam upwards and overcast.
13. Sew buttons onto the placket (through all layers).