Pleated Wrap Front Dress
Introducing an elegant, fitted dress pattern featuring a pleated crossover bodice, pleated straps caught in decorative loops, and soft horizontal pleats across the front and back skirt, designed for a graceful silhouette.
When To Wear
This elegant dress is perfectly suited for a variety of sophisticated occasions, including:
- Formal Events & Celebrations: Ideal for weddings, galas, and upscale parties where a refined look is desired.
- Cocktail Parties: Its sleek silhouette and soft folds make it a stunning choice for evening receptions.
- Special Dinners & Date Nights: Offers a polished and flattering style for memorable evenings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a close-fitting sheath silhouette that contours the body to just above the knee.
Neckline: a V-neck created by the crossing upper front panels (a mock wrap stitched into the seam with the lower front).
Bodice Front: pleated upper front panels that cross over each other, with a finished wrap edge.
Straps: wide pleated straps forming cap shoulders, passed through a decorative loop that covers the seam where they join the front; the armholes are finished with bias binding.
Midsection: horizontal pleats laid along the side seams of the lower front and back (and along the center back seam), creating a draped effect; the front and back pleats intentionally do not match.
Back: an upper back shaped with darts, joined to a pleated lower back, with a center back seam.
Closure: an invisible zipper at the center back seam.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires precision in folding pleats, assembling the crossover bodice and straps, invisible zipper insertion and careful construction of a fitted garment.
Fabric Recommendations
Select dress fabrics with a beautiful drape and some body to best showcase the pleats:
- Dress fabrics made from natural or blended fibers.
Additional Supplies
- Invisible zipper
- Bias binding, 4 cm wide (length equal to the armholes)
- Fusible interfacing (for the back facings)
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Upper Back – 2 pieces
- Lower Back – 2 pieces
- Upper Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 1 piece
- Strap – 2 pieces
- Back Facing – 2 pieces
- Placket (decorative loop) – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Stitch the darts on the Upper Back. Press the darts towards the center of the piece.
- On the Lower Back and Lower Front, fold the pleats along the side edges and the center back edge according to the markings, with the inner folds pointing upwards. Baste the pleats along the edges. Note: the back and front pleats do not match each other – this is intended by the design.
- On the Upper Front pieces, fold and stitch the pleats along the marked lines. Serge the wrap edge, turn it under, topstitch and press.
- Stitch the Upper Front pieces to the Lower Front. Press the seam downwards and serge.
- Stitch the Upper Back and Lower Back together, press the seam allowances downwards and serge.
- Serge the center back edges. Insert the invisible zipper from the upper edge to the notch. Fold the lower end of the zipper aside and stitch the center back seam from the notch downwards. Press the seam allowances open.
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the Back Facings. Serge the outer edge of the facings. Stitch the facings to the back neckline. Clip the seam on the curves, turn the facing to the inside and press. Stitch the center edge of the facing to the zipper tape.
- Serge the neckline edge of the Strap, press it under and topstitch. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back and the straps, catching the Back Facing at the same time. Serge the seam, turn and press towards the back.
- Stitch the side seams. Press the seams towards the back and serge.
- Cut a bias strip 4 cm wide and equal to the armhole length. Fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press. Place the binding along the armhole edge on the right side and stitch, then turn the binding to the wrong side and topstitch along the fold onto the dress. Press the seam.
- Fold the pleats on the strap, with the pleat folds directed away from the center of the strap. Baste the pleats near the edge.
- Fold the Placket in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch. Turn right side out and press. Stitch the piece into a ring. Serge and press the seam. Thread the strap through the decorative loop. Stitch the straps to the front. Press the seam downwards and serge. Position the loop so that it covers the strap seam and secure it from the wrong side.
- Press the hem allowance of the dress to the wrong side, fold under another 1 cm, and topstitch.