Double-breasted Notched Lapel Short Coat
A tailored women's short coat featuring a classic double-breasted front, sharp notched lapels, and a structured silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile short coat is perfect for adding a touch of polish to various ensembles, suitable for:
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Business & Professional Settings: Elevates office attire with its structured and refined design.
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Smart Casual Outings: Provides sophisticated layering for lunches, gallery visits, or everyday elegance.
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Transitional Weather: Offers ideal warmth and style for cooler seasons without the bulk of a full-length coat.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a finely tailored, semi-fitted silhouette that gracefully skims the body, ending at the upper thigh.
Neckline & Collar: Classic broad notched lapels with a well-defined collar, offering a sophisticated frame for the décolletage.
Closure: Double-breasted front with two columns of buttons, fastened with buttonholes on the right front and an inner button at the waist.
Sleeves: Two-piece set-in sleeves with decorative buttons at the sleeve vent, expertly shaped to provide a clean and tailored line to the arm.
Pockets: Two generously sized lined patch pockets with flaps positioned low on the front, each flap trimmed with a button.
Back: Features precise seaming, including a center back seam and princess seams, to ensure a sculpted fit.
Length: a chic short coat length, falling to the upper thigh, offering versatility and ease of movement.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. This pattern requires confident tailoring skills, including precise lapel and collar construction, setting in two-piece sleeves, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose structured coat fabrics that hold their shape well, made from natural or blended fibers:
- Coat fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 8 large buttons
- 10 small buttons
- 1 internal button
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 2 pieces
- Flap – 2 pieces
Attention: The center back and center front pieces are cut by subtracting the width of the back neckline facing and center front facing respectively.
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Flap – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the corresponding pieces with fusible interfacing, as well as the hem allowances of the garment and sleeves.
- Place the flap with the flap lining right sides together and stitch along the side and shaped edges. Trim the corner seam allowances, clip at curves. Turn the flap right side out, smooth, and press. Overlock the raw edge of the flap.
- Place the pocket with the pocket lining right sides together and stitch around the perimeter, leaving an opening for turning. Trim the corner seam allowances, turn the pocket right side out, smooth, and press. Slipstitch the turning opening closed.
- Place the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch along the ends and outer edge. Trim seam allowances at corners, clip at the notch. Turn the collar right side out, smooth, and press.
- Place the center front facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin, and stitch along the front edge, working from the hem upwards to the notch marking the end of the collar attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances at the upper and lower corners, clip at the notch. Understitch the front edge seam allowances 0.2 cm from the seam: in the buttoning area onto the facing, in the lapel area onto the front. Turn the front edges right side out and smooth the seams.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams of the back and front. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams.
- Mark the pocket placement. Topstitch the pocket in place along the marking. Measure 1.5 cm down from the upper edge of the pocket and mark the flap placement. Place the flap on the marking and stitch. Turn the flap down and topstitch 0.5 cm from the stitching seam.
- Stitch the back neckline facing to the center front facings at the shoulders and press open. Stitch the lower collar into the coat neckline, and the upper collar into the neckline edge of the back neckline facing and center front facings.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Insert the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and insert the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and the back neckline facing. Press open the seam allowances of the collar insertion seams and secure close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the hem of the coat and sleeves. Turn the coat right side out through the opening in the sleeve lining. Stitch the opening closed.
- Make buttonholes on the right front and sew the buttons on the left front. Sew decorative buttons on the right front and on the sleeve vents. Make an inner buttonhole on the left front at the waist and sew a matching button on the inside of the right front.
