Fitted Button-Front Shirt with Ray Neckline Darts
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a sharply tailored, fitted button-front shirt featuring elegant neckline ray darts, a classic shirt collar, and cuffed long sleeves.
When To Wear:
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Office & Business Professional: Its crisp silhouette makes it a perfect staple for the workplace.
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Smart Casual Gatherings: Easily dressed up or down for various social settings.
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Versatile Layering: An ideal foundation piece for blazers, cardigans, or standalone wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bust and waist with shaping darts on both front and back, creating a sleek and tailored profile.
Neckline & Collar: Pointed shirt collar on a separate stand, offering a polished neckline.
Closure: Full-length button-front closure on a cut-in-one, topstitched front placket, with seven buttons.
Sleeves: Long set-in sleeves with pleats at the lower edge, finished with buttoned cuffs and a functional sleeve placket.
Front Details: Ray darts fanning out from the neckline, plus waist darts, adding a touch of elegance and shape.
Back: Center back seam with shaping darts for a refined fit.
Hem: Straight hem, suitable for tucking in or wearing untucked.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires skills in collar and cuff construction, button plackets, and accurate dart sewing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose crisp, lightweight fabrics with good drape and structure for a polished finish:
- Blouse fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
- Cotton (e.g., shirting, poplin)
- Viscose
- Polyester blends
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 9 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Sleeve Placket – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Collar – 1 piece
- Stand Collar – 1 piece
- Front placket strip (cut-in-one placket) – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the cut-in-one front plackets, the cuffs, the upper collar and the inner stand collar.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar, right sides together. Stitch the ends and the outer edge of the collar. Trim the seam allowances. Turn the collar right side out, shape, and press. Place the stand collar pieces right sides together, insert the finished collar between them, align the notches, and stitch, at the same time stitching the ends of the stand. Start and end the stitching precisely at the marked line of the stand attachment seam. Turn the finished collar right side out and press.
- Stitch the darts on the fronts. Press the waist darts towards the center front, and the neckline (bust) darts away from the center. Stitch the darts on the back. Press the darts towards the center back seam. Stitch the center back seam. Overlock the seam and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Overlock the seams and press towards the back. Turn the plackets under twice to the wrong side and topstitch along the inner edge of the placket.
- Stitch the outer stand with the collar to the neckline, turn under the open edge of the inner stand and stitch it into the attachment seam. Topstitch along the stand and collar.
- Sleeve placket: Cut the sleeve along the marked line, clipping into the corner at the top of the slit. Turn the section from the slit to the marked line, measuring 1.7 cm, inwards twice by 0.5 cm and topstitch. Fold the sleeve placket lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch the pointed end down to the cross mark. Trim the seam allowances close to the stitching, clip the seam allowance at the end of the stitching. Turn the placket right side out, press, and topstitch 0.1 cm along the fold from the bottom up to the cross mark. Place the placket on the sleeve, right sides together, and stitch one edge along the marked line. At the end of the stitching, clip the sleeve across from the slit to the stitching line. Fold the placket to the right side, turn under the open edge, and attach. Align the placket with the marked line on the sleeve and topstitch the pointed top along its outline and across at the cross mark.
- Stitch and overlock the sleeve seams. Set in the sleeves, easing the cap.
- Fold the cuffs in half and stitch the short sides and the section up to the notch. Clip the seam allowance near the notch. Turn the cuffs right side out and press. Fold the pleats at the lower edge of the sleeve along the marked lines. Attach the outer side of the cuff to the sleeve. Turn under the inner side of the cuff and topstitch into the attachment seam. Make buttonholes on the cuffs and sew on buttons.
- Overlock the hem edge of the shirt, press to the wrong side, and topstitch.
- Make buttonholes on the right front, and sew on buttons on the left.
