Double-Breasted Jacket with Flared Sleeves
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a double-breasted jacket featuring a shirt-style collar on a stand, distinctive flared sleeves, and welt pockets set into the front darts.
When To Wear
This stylish jacket is perfect for adding a touch of elegance to various outfits, making it suitable for:
- Office & Business Casual: a refined outer layer for professional and smart-casual work environments.
- Transitional Outerwear: Ideal for cooler weather as a chic and comfortable layering piece.
- Smart Daytime Events: An elegant choice for luncheons, gallery visits, or sophisticated social gatherings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A tailored, short jacket with a boxy yet structured fit, designed to hit at the hip.
Collar: A pointed shirt-style collar set on a separate stand, topstitched along the edges.
Closure: Double-breasted front with six buttons and buttonholes on the right front; cut-on front facings.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves divided across the upper arm into an upper part and a flared lower part, ending below the elbow.
Pockets: Two vertical welt pockets set into the front waist darts, with topstitched welts.
Back: Shaped with princess seams, a center back seam and shoulder darts.
Hem: A straight hemline that maintains the jacket's clean, structured aesthetic.
Lining: Fully lined for a smooth interior finish, enhanced structure, and comfortable wear.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise collar-and-stand construction, two-part flared sleeves, accurate double-breasted button placement, welt pockets set into darts and a full bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting materials that offer good structure and drape for a polished finish:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or synthetic fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Stand Collar – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front (with cut-on facing) – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Off-Set Welt – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
Attention: the front and back lining pieces are cut minus the width of the front facings and Back Neckline Facing respectively. Before cutting the sleeve lining, join the Upper Sleeve and Lower Sleeve patterns into one.
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front with cut-on facing, Stand Collar, Collar, Back Neckline Facing, Off-Set Welt.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Fronts with cut-on facing, Stand Collar, Collar, Back Neckline Facing and Off-Set Welts.
- Place the Collar pieces right sides together and stitch around the outer edge. Trim, turn out the corners and press. Stitch the two Stand Collar pieces together, inserting the collar between them. Turn to the right side and press.
- Fold each Off-Set Welt in half lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch the short ends. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the welt right side out and press. Topstitch along the short sides and one long side.
- Stitch the shoulder darts on the back. Press them towards the center back. Cut the front waist dart open along its center, insert the welt between the dart legs according to the markings, and stitch the dart. Trim the excess dart fold and press towards the center front.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Press seam allowances towards the center front. Stitch the princess seams of the back. Press seam allowances towards the center back. Stitch the center back seam of the back. Press seam allowances to the left side.
- Fold the cut-on front facing to the right side and stitch across the top from the front edge to the center front line. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the front facing to the right side, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts. Press seam allowances towards the Upper Sleeve. Stitch the sleeve seams, press seam allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the front facings and Back Neckline Facing and press open. Place the facings and the garment right sides together and, inserting the collar between them, stitch the neckline. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and Back Neckline Facing. Stitch the lower corner, trim seam allowances. Topstitch along the front edge and collar.
- Mark and press the hem of the jacket and sleeves to the wrong side. Stitch the hem of the sleeve and garment with the lining. Turn the jacket to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, mark and make the buttonholes. Sew on buttons according to the markings.
