Double-Breasted Jacket with Flared Sleeves
Introducing a sophisticated women's sewing pattern for a double-breasted jacket featuring a structured collar, distinctive flared cape sleeves, and practical patch pockets.
When To Wear
This stylish jacket is perfect for adding a touch of elegance to various outfits, making it suitable for:
- Office & Business Casual: a refined outer layer for professional and smart-casual work environments.
- Transitional Outerwear: Ideal for cooler weather as a chic and comfortable layering piece.
- Smart Daytime Events: An elegant choice for luncheons, gallery visits, or sophisticated social gatherings.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: a tailored, short jacket with a boxy yet structured fit, designed to hit at the hip.
Collar & Lapel: Features a wide, pointed collar with a stand, creating a classic notched lapel effect when worn slightly open.
Closure: Double-breasted front secured with six decorative buttons arranged in two vertical rows.
Sleeves: Unique three-quarter length sleeves that are elegantly flared, resembling a modern cape style, integrated smoothly into the shoulder.
Pockets: Two functional rectangular patch pockets on the front, each detailed with a neat welt opening.
Back: Shaped with vertical princess seams for a flattering, contoured fit.
Hem: a straight hemline that maintains the jacket's clean, structured aesthetic.
Lining: Fully lined for a smooth interior finish, enhanced structure, and comfortable wear.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Involves precise collar construction, crafting multi-piece shaped sleeves, accurate double-breasted button placement, and clean application of welted patch pockets and full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose suiting materials that offer good structure and drape for a polished finish:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or synthetic fibers
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- 6 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Collar Stand – qty 2
- Collar – qty 2
- Center back – qty 2
- Side (back) – qty 2
- Side (front) – qty 2
- Center front – qty 2
- Upper sleeve – qty 2
- Lower sleeve – qty 2
- Back neckline facing – qty 1
- Welt pocket flap – qty 2
- From lining fabric:
- Center back – qty 2
- Side (back) – qty 2
- Center front – qty 2
- Side (front) – qty 2
- Upper sleeve – qty 2
- Lower sleeve – qty 2
Attention: front and back lining pieces are cut without considering the width of the front facings and back neckline facing, respectively. Before cutting the sleeve lining, the upper and lower parts should be joined together.
- From fusible interfacing: Center front cut with integrated front facing, collar stand, collar, back neckline facing, welt pocket flap.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the center front with integrated front facing, collar stand, collar, back neckline facing, and welt pocket flap with fusible interfacing.
- Place collar pieces right sides together and stitch along the contour. Trim, turn out collar corners. Press the collar. Stitch the collar stands, inserting the collar between them. Turn to the right side and press.
- Fold the welt pocket flap piece in half lengthwise, right side in, and stitch along the short sides. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the welt pocket flap to the right side and press. Topstitch along the short sides and one long side.
- Stitch the shoulder darts on the back. Press them towards the center back. Slash the waist dart depth on the front in the middle, insert the welt pocket flap between the sides according to the markings, and stitch. Trim excess dart depth, press towards the center front.
- Stitch the princess seams of the front. Press seam allowances towards the center front. Stitch the princess seams of the back. Press seam allowances towards the center back. Stitch the center back seam of the back. Press seam allowances to the left side.
- Fold the integrated front facing to the right side and stitch the upper corner from the edge to the center line. Trim seam allowances at the corners, turn the front facing to the right side, straighten, and press.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams. Press seam allowances open.
- Stitch the upper and lower sleeve parts. Press seam allowances towards the upper. Stitch the sleeve seams, press seam allowances open. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the front facing and neckline facing. Place the facing with the garment right sides together and, inserting the collar between them, stitch the neckline. On the lining pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the right front sleeve seam. Press the lining seam allowances. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and facing. Stitch the lower corner, trim seam allowances. Topstitch along the front edge and collar.
- Mark and press the hem of the jacket and sleeves to the wrong side. Stitch the hem of the sleeve and garment with the lining. Turn the jacket to the right side through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- On the right front, mark and overlock the buttonholes. Sew on buttons according to the markings.
