Fitted Asymmetrical Front Notched Jacket
A women's fitted, hip-length jacket in faux leather with an asymmetrical two-button front, a notched collar with wide lapels and welt pockets set into a horizontal seam. Princess seams in the upper front and back; fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn as a light outer layer over shirts, tops and fine knitwear.
- With trousers, jeans or straight skirts for everyday and office wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted, shaped by princess seams in the upper front and upper back.
Length: To the hip, with a straight hem.
Collar: Notched collar with wide lapels; upper collar interfaced, edges topstitched 0.1 cm.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves; elbow seam topstitched.
Closure: Asymmetrical front, the right front overlapping well past the centre and fastened with two buttons and buttonholes. The facing seam forms a placket on the front, topstitched 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam.
Front: Upper front of centre and side pieces joined to a lower front by a horizontal seam, pressed up and topstitched.
Pockets: Welt pockets with a folded welt, set into the seam between the upper and lower front.
Back: Upper back with a centre back seam and princess seams, joined to a one-piece lower back by a horizontal seam.
Finishing: All seams topstitched; 4.5 cm hem allowance at the jacket and sleeve hems.
Lining: Full lining cut in the same sections as the jacket, attached to the facings.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Sewing faux leather with topstitched seams, welt pockets in a seam, a notched collar set into the facings, an asymmetrical front and a bagged lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux leather. Test fusible interfacing on a scrap before fusing it to the faux leather pieces.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing (front facings, upper collar, back neck facing)
- 2 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Side upper front – 2 pieces
- 2. Side upper back – 2 pieces
- 3. Center upper back – 2 pieces
- 4. Center upper front – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower back – 1 piece
- 6. Lower front – 2 pieces
- 7. Upper collar – 1 piece
- 8. Lower collar – 1 piece
- 9. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 10. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 11. Welt pocket lip – 2 pieces
- 12. Pocket stay – 2 pieces
- 13. Front facing – 2 pieces
- 14. Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Side upper front – 2 pieces
- 2. Side upper back – 2 pieces
- 3. Center upper back – 2 pieces
- 4. Center upper front – 2 pieces
- 5. Lower back – 1 piece
- 6. Lower front – 2 pieces
- 7. Upper sleeve – 2 pieces
- 8. Lower sleeve – 2 pieces
- 9. Small pocket bag – 2 pieces
- 10. Large pocket bag – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Front facing, upper collar, back neckline facing.
Attention: Before fusing artificial leather pieces, test on a scrap piece. Front and back lining pieces are cut without considering the width of the front FACINGs and back neckline facing, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the front facing, upper collar, and back neckline facing with fusible interfacing.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper front. Press the seam allowances towards the center front and topstitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper back. Press the seam allowances towards the center back and topstitch.
- Stitch the center seam of the upper back. Press the seam allowances and topstitch.
- Pocket construction: Topstitch the pocket stay to the large pocket bag. Fold the upper front and large pocket bag right sides together, aligning the notches, and stitch the section between the notches. Fold the welt pocket lip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt pocket lip. Place the welt pocket lip with the pocket bag on the right side of the lower front, with the outer side facing down. Stitch the welt pocket lip with the pocket bag along the horizontal edge. Cut the seam allowance for attaching the welt pocket lip on the lower front from the corner to the attachment line. Fold back the welt pocket lip with the pocket bag and press. Stitch the ends of the welt pocket lip to the lower front. Topstitch along the attachment line of the welt pocket lip. Fold the upper and lower front PANELs right sides together and stitch the pieces together. Press the seam upwards and topstitch. Stitch the pocket bags.
- Stitch the front facing to the front. Press the seam towards the front and make 2 topstitches at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Fold the front facing to the wrong side, forming the front placket. Stitch the lapel edge from the corner to the notch, which marks the end of the collar attachment. Trim the seam allowances of the upper front corners. Turn the fronts to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the upper and lower back PANELs. Press the seam upwards and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press the seam allowances towards the back and topstitch.
- Fold the upper collar with the lower collar and stitch. Trim the seam allowances at the corners, turn out, straighten, and press the collar.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and front facing. Stitch the upper collar into the neckline of the front FACINGs and facing from the transverse mark to the corner, clip the seam allowance at the corners, and then stitch the longitudinal edge of the collar. Stitch the lower collar into the jacket neckline. Press the seam allowances open. Turn the front FACINGs and facing to the wrong side, precisely align the collar attachment seams, and stitch into the seam of the upper collar attachment.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the seam and topstitch. Press the sleeve hem. Fold the seam allowance back. Stitch and press the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the front FACINGs and back neckline facing. Stitch the lower front corner. Trim the seam allowances of the lower front corners.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket and the sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve. Topstitch along the edge of the front and collar at 0.1 cm.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons.
