CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Side upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 2. Side upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 3. Center upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 4 . Center upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 5. Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1
- 6. Lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 7. Upper COLLAR – QTY 1
- 8. Lower COLLAR – QTY 1
- 9. Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- 10. Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- 11. Welt pocket lip – QTY 2
- 12. Pocket stay – QTY 2
- 13. Front FACING – QTY 2
- 14. Back neckline FACING – QTY 1
- From LINING fabric:
- 1. Side upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 2. Side upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 3. Center upper BACK PANEL – QTY 2
- 4. Center upper FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 5. Lower BACK PANEL – QTY 1
- 6. Lower FRONT PANEL – QTY 2
- 7. Upper SLEEVE – QTY 2
- 8. Lower SLEEVE – QTY 2
- 9. Small pocket bag – QTY 2
- 10. Large pocket bag – QTY 2
- FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: Front FACING, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING.
ATTENTION: Before fusing artificial leather pieces, test on a scrap piece. FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL LINING pieces are cut without considering the width of the front FACINGs and back neckline FACING, respectively.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse the front FACING, upper COLLAR, and back neckline FACING with FUSIBLE INTERFACING.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper FRONT PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center front and topstitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the seam.
- Stitch the princess seams of the upper BACK PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the center back and topstitch.
- Stitch the center seam of the upper BACK PANEL. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES and topstitch.
- Pocket construction: Topstitch the pocket stay to the large pocket bag. Fold the upper FRONT PANEL and large pocket bag right sides together, aligning the NOTCHES, and stitch the section between the NOTCHES. Fold the welt pocket lip in half lengthwise, right side out, and press. Stitch the small pocket bag to the inner side of the welt pocket lip. Place the welt pocket lip with the pocket bag on the right side of the lower FRONT PANEL, with the outer side facing down. Stitch the welt pocket lip with the pocket bag along the horizontal edge. Cut the SEAM ALLOWANCE for attaching the welt pocket lip on the lower FRONT PANEL from the corner to the attachment line. Fold back the welt pocket lip with the pocket bag and press. Stitch the ends of the welt pocket lip to the lower FRONT PANEL. Topstitch along the attachment line of the welt pocket lip. Fold the upper and lower FRONT PANELs right sides together and stitch the pieces together. Press the seam upwards and topstitch. Stitch the pocket bags.
- Stitch the front FACING to the FRONT PANEL. Press the seam towards the FRONT PANEL and make 2 topstitches at 0.1 cm and 0.7 cm from the seam. Fold the front FACING to the wrong side, forming the FRONT PANEL placket. Stitch the lapel edge from the corner to the NOTCH, which marks the end of the COLLAR attachment. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the upper front corners. Turn the fronts to the right side, straighten the seams.
- Stitch the upper and lower BACK PANELs. Press the seam upwards and topstitch.
- Stitch the shoulder and side seams of the jacket. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES towards the BACK PANEL and topstitch.
- Fold the upper COLLAR with the lower COLLAR and stitch. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES at the corners, turn out, straighten, and press the COLLAR.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline FACING and front FACING. Stitch the upper COLLAR into the neckline of the front FACINGs and FACING from the transverse mark to the corner, clip the SEAM ALLOWANCE at the corners, and then stitch the longitudinal edge of the COLLAR. Stitch the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline. Press the SEAM ALLOWANCES open. Turn the front FACINGs and FACING to the wrong side, precisely align the COLLAR attachment seams, and stitch into the seam of the upper COLLAR attachment.
- Stitch the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press the seam and topstitch. Press the SLEEVE hem. Fold the SEAM ALLOWANCE back. Stitch and press the front seam of the SLEEVE.
- Set the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES.
- On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
- Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACINGs and back neckline FACING. Stitch the lower front corner. Trim the SEAM ALLOWANCES of the lower front corners.
- Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and the SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE. Topstitch along the edge of the front and COLLAR at 0.1 cm.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, make buttonholes; on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on buttons.
