Asymmetrical Double Breasted Belted Jacket
A short women's faux leather jacket with an asymmetric double-breasted front, wide notched lapels, a tilted chest patch pocket with a buttoned flap and sleeves finished with wide cuffs. A separate buckled belt runs through loops at the side seams. Fully lined.
When To Wear
- In spring and autumn over T-shirts, shirts and fine knitwear.
- With jeans, straight trousers or skirts for everyday wear.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Straight, boxy body pulled in by the belt.
Length: Short, ending around the top of the hip; straight hem.
Collar: Wide notched collar with an upper and lower collar set between the jacket and the facings; the layers are joined by stitching in the ditch of the neckline seam. Buttonholes are made on both lapels.
Front: Asymmetric double-breasted front with four buttons, buttonholes on the right front; separate front facings.
Pockets: One lined patch pocket set at an angle on the right chest, topstitched 3 cm below its top edge, under a flap with a buttonhole.
Sleeves: One-piece set-in sleeves sewn into the open armhole, sleeve and side seams stitched in one; wide cuffs sewn into a ring and attached to the sleeve hem.
Back: One piece with no centre back seam.
Waist: Belt stitched along three sides, turned and topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge, with a buckle; two belt loops on the side seams.
Lining: Full lining including a lined pocket, attached to the facings, the cuffs and the jacket hem; the jacket is turned through an opening in the left sleeve lining.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Working with faux leather, a notched collar set between jacket and facings, a lined patch pocket with flap and a bagged full lining.
Fabric Recommendations
Faux leather. Test pressing and fusing on a scrap first.
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- 4 buttons
- Buckle for the belt
Cutter's Must
- From faux leather:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Cuff – 2 pieces
- Waistband – 1 piece
- Belt-Loop – 1 piece
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Collar – 1 piece
- Lower Collar – 1 piece
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Flap – 1 piece
- From lining fabric:
- Back – 1 piece
- Front – 2 pieces
- Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Pocket – 1 piece
- Flap – 1 piece
Attention: The front and back lining pieces are cut without considering the width of the front facings and the back neckline facing, respectively. The sleeve lining pieces are cut without considering the cuff width. Before pressing or fusing the faux leather, test on a scrap piece.
Sewing Instructions
- Place the two Flap pieces right sides together and stitch along 3 sides. Trim the seam allowances at the flap corners and turn out. Press the seams flat. Overlock the open edge of the flap. Make a buttonhole at the marking.
- Stitch the pocket lining to the cut-on facing at the top of the Pocket, leaving a 5 cm opening in the middle of the seam for turning. Stitch the side and bottom edges of the pocket to the lining. Turn the pocket right side out and press. Topstitch 3 cm from the top edge of the pocket, closing the opening. Mark the position of the chest pocket on the right front. Topstitch the pocket onto the front. Stitch the flap to the front above the pocket, turn it down and topstitch.
- Place the Upper Collar and Lower Collar right sides together and stitch the outer edges. Trim the seams at the corners, turn out, shape, and press the collar.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the Front, right side down, and stitch along the front edge, working from the front side upwards to the notch that marks the end of the collar seam. Trim the seams of the upper front corners. Turn the front edges to the right side, and press the seams flat.
- Stitch the shoulder seams. Press the seams open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the Back Neckline Facing and the Center Front Facings. Press the seams open. Place the collar between the jacket and the facings. Stitch the lower collar into the jacket neckline and the upper collar into the neckline of the facings. Press the collar seam allowances open. Turn the front facings to the wrong side. Align the seams. From the upper collar side, stitch in the ditch of the neckline seam to hold the layers together.
- Set the sleeve into the open armhole.
- Stitch the underarm sleeve seam and the side seam in one continuous seam. Press the seams open.
- Fold the Belt-Loop into 3 layers and stitch. Cut it into 2 belt loops. Sew the belt loops to the side seam along the marked line.
- Stitch each Cuff into a ring. Press the seam open. Stitch the cuff to the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the pieces out and press.
- Sew the lining pieces together, leaving an unstitched section in the left sleeve seam for subsequent turning. Place the lining with the jacket right sides together and stitch to the inner edges of the front facings and the back neckline facing. Stitch the bottom corner of the front edge. Trim the seams of the bottom front corners. Stitch the sleeve lining to the cuff.
- Stitch the lining to the bottom of the jacket. Turn the jacket out through the opening in the sleeve, press the seams flat, and stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
- Fold the Waistband (belt) lengthwise in half, right sides together, and stitch along three sides, leaving a 7-10 cm opening in the middle of the long side of the belt. Turn the belt out and press. Topstitch along the contour at a distance of 0.5 cm, simultaneously closing the opening. Thread the buckle.
- On the right front, make buttonholes; on the left front, sew on buttons. Note: buttonholes are also made on the lapels of both fronts.
