Gathered Collar Jacket
Introducing a sophisticated women's jacket pattern defined by its elegantly gathered wide collar and charming front tie closure.
When To Wear
This jacket is perfect for adding a touch of refined elegance to various occasions, making it an ideal choice for:
- Evening & Special Events: Perfect for sophisticated gatherings or formal dinners when paired with an elegant dress or trousers.
- Professional & Business Casual: Elevates workwear with its unique silhouette and refined details, suitable for office or professional meetings.
- Stylish Layering: Adds a chic and distinctive layer over blouses, camisoles, or dresses for a polished look.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Cropped length, shaped with princess seams on both the front and back for a tailored fit, designed to tie at the front.
Collar: Features a wide, gathered stand-up collar that creates soft ruching and drapes gracefully down the front opening.
Closure: The front opening secures with a delicate tie closure positioned at the waist level.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves provide a clean and classic arm line.
Back: The back features shaping princess seams, contributing to a contoured and fitted silhouette.
Length: Designed to fall at the natural waist or slightly below, offering a modern cropped length.
Level Of Difficulty
Intermediate. Requires experience with princess seams, gathering techniques, setting in sleeves, and working with lining and interfacing.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics that support structure while allowing for soft gathering and drape:
- Fabrics made from natural or blended fibers.
- Medium-weight fabrics with body and drape, such as brocade, jacquard, or satin.
- Fine wool blends or gabardine for a more structured finish.
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- Decorative cord for the collar (for gathering)
- Tape for tying the jacket
Cutting Plan
- Main Fabric: Back side panel – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Front side panel – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Collar – 1 piece
- Main Fabric: Back center panel – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Front center panel – 4 pieces
- Main Fabric: Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Main Fabric: Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Lining Fabric: Back side panel – 2 pieces
- Lining Fabric: Front side panel – 2 pieces
- Lining Fabric: Back center panel – 2 pieces
- Lining Fabric: Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Fusible Interfacing: Back neckline facing – 1 piece
- Fusible Interfacing: Front center panel – 2 pieces
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the back neckline facing and 2 pieces of the front center panel.
- Mark darts on the back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center.
- Fold the collar lengthwise and stitch along the short side, leaving an opening for the cord. Turn the collar right side out, straighten seams, and press. Stitch along the collar edge with loosely tensioned stitches and gather.
- Stitch the princess seam on the front. Press open the princess seam on the front.
- Stitch and press open the back center seam. Stitch and press open the back princess seams. Stitch and press open the jacket's shoulder and side seams.
- Stitch and press open the sleeve seam.
- Set sleeves into armholes according to notches. Insert shoulder pads.
- Attach the collar to the front.
- On lining fabric pieces, stitch and serge the princess seams. Attach the neckline facing to the lining. The front center panel acts as the facing/underlap. Stitch and serge the lining's shoulder and side seams. Set sleeves, leaving an opening in the sleeve seam.
- Bag out the jacket with the lining. Bagging is done from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the facings to the front, precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the lower front corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front facing to the facing itself in the closure area. Place the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam (stopping 3 cm from the neckline edge and the lower corner). Turn the fronts right side out, straighten the seams. Remove temporary basting threads.
- Attach the lining to the jacket hem and sleeve hem. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
- Mark and insert decorative rings on the front.
- Thread cord through the collar and gather.
