Double-Breasted Jacket with Ruffled Hem
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a tailored double-breasted jacket, distinguished by its classic notched lapels, fitted silhouette, and a charming ruffled hem.
When To Wear
This stylish jacket is perfect for adding a touch of sophisticated flair to a variety of occasions:
- Business Casual: Elevates professional attire with a fashionable, tailored twist.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: A chic outer layer ideal for brunches, dinners, or social events.
- Statement Everyday Wear: Transforms a simple outfit into a fashion-forward and polished ensemble.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Cropped length, fitted through the torso with a defined waist, flaring into a playful ruffled hem.
Collar & Lapel: Classic notched lapel collar, indicating a structured and tailored neckline.
Closure: Double-breasted front with two rows of decorative buttons, secured with an interior anchor button for a neat overlap.
Sleeves: Set-in sleeves finished with a gathered, ruffled cuff, adding volume and a whimsical touch.
Hem: Distinctive cropped hem featuring a prominent, voluminous ruffle that creates a playful, flared silhouette.
Back: Fitted back with a center seam and shaping details for a sleek profile that mirrors the front's tailored structure.
Shoulder: Structured shoulder line, designed to accommodate shoulder pads for a crisp, defined shape.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires precise tailoring skills for lapel and collar construction, working with double-breasted closures, setting sleeves, and creating intricate ruffled cuffs and hem.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight structured fabrics that can hold the jacket's tailored shape and the ruffles' volume:
- Wool or wool blend fabrics
- Semi-woolen fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- 7 buttons
- Shoulder pads
Fabric & Materials
FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, upper COLLAR, back neckline FACING.
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- Lower COLLAR – 1 QTY
- Upper COLLAR – 1 QTY
- FACING – 2 QTY
- Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
- FLOUNCE – 2 QTY
- SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- CUFF – 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the FACING, upper COLLAR, and back neckline FACING.
- Mark darts on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center back, and on the FRONT PANEL towards the center front.
- Place the upper COLLAR and lower COLLAR right sides together and stitch. Trim SEAM ALLOWANCES at corners, turn the COLLAR right side out. Straighten seams and press the COLLAR.
- Serge the outer edge of the FACING. Place the FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR attachment. Trim the seams of the upper front corners. Topstitch the SEAM ALLOWANCE of the front edge: in the fastener area – to the FACING, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams.
- Serge, stitch, and press open the center back seam.
- Serge, stitch, and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Serge the outer edge of the FACING. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and FACING. Attach the lower COLLAR to the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR to the neckline edge of the back FACING.
- Serge, fold, and topstitch the lower edge of the CUFF. Along the upper edge of the CUFF, 0.5 cm from the edge, sew a gathering stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the upper edge of the piece to match the length of the lower edge of the SLEEVE, distributing the gathers evenly along the entire length. Attach the CUFF to the lower edge of the SLEEVE. Serge the attachment seam and press it towards the SLEEVE.
- Serge, stitch, and press open the SLEEVE seam.
- Attach the SLEEVES to the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Serge the attachment seam. Attach shoulder pads.
- Stitch the center edge of the FLOUNCE and press open. Serge the lower and front edges of the FLOUNCE. Fold and topstitch the serged edges of the FLOUNCE. Along the upper edge of the FLOUNCE, 0.5 cm from the edge, sew a gathering stitch with loosely tensioned stitches. Gather the upper edge of the piece to match the length of the lower edge of the BACK PANEL and FRONT PANEL, distributing the gathers evenly along the entire length. Attach the FLOUNCE to the lower edge of the jacket, aligning the center seam. Attach the FACING to the lower edge of the jacket. Serge the attachment seam and topstitch to the jacket.
- On the right FRONT PANEL, serge the buttonhole, on the left FRONT PANEL, sew on the button.
