Asymmetrical Peplum Jacket
Introducing a women's sewing pattern for a sharply tailored, fully lined jacket featuring an asymmetrical front closure with fabric button loops, a defined waist, and a shaped peplum with pointed front ends.
When To Wear
This sophisticated jacket is a versatile addition to a modern wardrobe, perfect for:
- Professional Settings: Elevates office attire with its structured and polished look.
- Evening & Special Occasions: Provides a chic and unique outer layer for dinner or events.
- Stylish Everyday Wear: Adds a refined touch to smart casual outfits.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice with princess seams, cinched at the natural waist, with a shaped peplum below.
Neckline & Collar: Deep V-neckline framed by a collar with separately cut lapels.
Closure: Asymmetrical front closure fastened with four buttons and fabric button loops.
Sleeves: Long, tailored two-piece set-in sleeves for a smooth, fitted arm.
Waist: Emphasized with princess seams, creating a cinched effect above the peplum.
Hem: Distinctive double-layer peplum, with pointed front edges that create a dynamic silhouette.
Back: Center back seam, princess seams and darts for a contoured fit, with a peplum continuing around the back.
Length: Short length, ending at the upper hip, with the peplum adding visual interest.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Involves complex tailoring techniques including precise shaping seams, lapel and collar construction, fabric button loops, lining insertion, and a faced peplum.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose medium-weight suiting fabrics that hold their shape well, such as:
- Suiting fabrics made from natural or blended fibers (e.g., wool blends, gabardine, heavy cotton twill, crepe)
Additional Supplies
- Fusible interfacing
- Lining fabric
- Shoulder pads
- 4 buttons
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Lower Front – 4 pieces
- Lower Back – 4 pieces
- Back Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Collar – 2 pieces
- Lapel – 4 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Strip for button loops, 3 cm wide (cut by measurement)
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Center Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing: Center Front Facing, Center Front, Back Neckline Facing, Collar, Lapel.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the center front facings, back neckline facing, center fronts, collar, and lapels.
- Mark the darts on the back. Stitch the back darts and press them towards the center.
- Stitch each lapel to a collar piece and press the seam open.
- Stitch the center back seam and press open. Stitch the center back seam of the lower back (peplum) and press open.
- Stitch the princess seams on the front and press open. Stitch the princess seams on the back and press open.
- Stitch the lower front to the lower edge of the front. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the lower back to the lower edge of the back. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press the side and shoulder seams open.
- Stitch the under collar with its lapels into the neckline of the front and back. Press the seam open.
- Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neckline facing and center front facings. Press the shoulder seams open. Stitch the upper collar with its lapels into the neckline of the facings. Press the seam open.
- Cut a 3 cm wide strip of main fabric for the button loops. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, closing one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut the strip into loops and fold each loop in half. Baste the loops to the right front at the marks.
- Stitch the side seams of the inner lower front and lower back (peplum facing). Press the side seams open. Overlock the upper edge of the inner peplum.
- Place the center front facing on the right side of the front, right sides together, pin and stitch along the front edge, lapel and collar edge. Place the outer and inner peplum right sides together and stitch along the lower edge of the jacket; trim the seam allowances at the corners. Understitch the seam allowance 0.2 cm from the seam: onto the facing along the buttoned section and onto the front along the lapel. Turn the front edges and the peplum right side out and roll the seams. Press the peplum and front edges.
- Stitch the back (elbow) seam of the sleeve and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch the front seam of the sleeve and press open.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes, matching the notches. Attach the shoulder pads.
- Sew the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves.
- Stitch the lining to the inner edges of the center front facings and back neckline facing. Press open the collar seam allowances and tack them together close to the seams.
- Stitch the lining to the sleeve hems. Turn the jacket right side out through the hem. Align the hems of the jacket and the lining. Lay the upper edge of the inner peplum over the lining and stitch it in the ditch of the outer peplum seam.
- Mark the button positions on the left front and sew on the buttons.
