Pattern

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL (center) – QTY 2
2. BACK PANEL (side) – QTY 2
3. FRONT PANEL (side) – QTY 2
4. FRONT FLOUNCE – QTY 4
5. BACK FLOUNCE – QTY 4
6. BACK NECK FACING – QTY 1
7. FRONT PANEL (center) – QTY 2
8. FRONT FACING – QTY 2
9. COLLAR – QTY 2
10. LAPEL – QTY 4
11. SLEEVE (upper part) – QTY 2
12. SLEEVE (lower part) – QTY 2
• From lining fabric:
1. BACK PANEL (center) – QTY 2
2. BACK PANEL (side) – QTY 2
3. FRONT PANEL (center) – QTY 2
4. FRONT PANEL (side) – QTY 2
5. SLEEVE (upper part) – QTY 2
6. SLEEVE (lower part) – QTY 2
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, front panel (center), back neck facing, collar, lapel.

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the front facing, back neck facing, front panel (center), collar, and lapel.
2. Mark darts on the back panel. Stitch and press back darts towards the center.
3. Attach lapel to the collar, press the seam open.
4. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the center flounce seam.
5. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front panel. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back panel.
6. Attach the front flounce to the lower edge of the front panel. Press the seam open.
7. Attach the back flounce to the lower edge of the back panel. Press the seam open.
8. Stitch the side and shoulder seams of the jacket. Press side and shoulder seams open.
9. Insert the undercollar with lapel into the neckline of the front and back panels. Press the seam open.
10. Stitch the shoulder seams of the back neck facing and front facing. Press open the shoulder seams of the facing and front facing. Insert the upper collar with lapel into the neckline of the front facing and back neck facing. Press the seam open.
11. Cut a 3 cm wide strip for buttonholes from the main fabric. Fold the strip lengthwise and stitch 0.5 cm from the fold, finishing one end. Turn the strip right side out and press. Cut buttonholes from the strip and fold them. Baste the buttonholes to the right front panel according to markings.
12. Stitch the side seams of the front and back flounces. Press the side seams of the flounce open. Overcast the upper edge of the flounce.
13. Place the front facing on the right side of the front panel, face down, pin and stitch along the front edge, lapel, and collar edge. Place the flounce pieces right sides together and stitch the lower edge of the jacket, trim seam allowances at corners. Understitch the front facing seam allowance: on the button closure section – to the front facing, on the lapel roll line section – to the front panel. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges right side out, straighten the seams. Turn the flounce right side out, straighten the seams. Press the flounce and front edges.
14. Stitch the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the elbow seam of the sleeve open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
15. Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads.
16. On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves.
17. Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front facings and back neck facing. Press open the collar insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
18. Attach the lining to the sleeve hem. Turn the garment right side out through the bottom of the jacket. Align the bottom of the jacket and the lining. Place the upper edge of the inner flounce on the lining and topstitch into the seam of the outer flounce.
19. Mark and sew buttons on the left front panel.