Collarless Front Zipper Jacket
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a collarless jacket, featuring a sleek front zipper and tailored princess seams for a refined, fitted silhouette.
When To Wear
This jacket is a versatile piece, perfect for adding a polished touch to various occasions:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear or business casual events.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: a sophisticated layer for dinners, outings, or social events.
- Transitional Seasons: Provides warmth and style as a chic outerwear option.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice, reaching hip-length.
Neckline: Collarless, with a clean, round neckline.
Closure: Center front separating zipper.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves for a tailored fit.
Shaping: Front and back feature princess seams for a sculpted, figure-flattering shape.
Hem: Straight hemline.
Length: Hip-length.
Lining: Fully lined for a clean finish and comfortable wear.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires skills in setting separating zippers, constructing princess seams, full lining assembly, and setting in shoulder pads & sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Select medium-weight fabrics with some body to achieve the desired structure and drape:
- Wool or wool blend fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 separating zipper
- 1 pair of shoulder pads
- 1 pair of sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
If the patterns have a double contour, seam allowances are included; if the contour is single, seam allowances are not included. Seam allowances: all seams – 1 cm; jacket and sleeve hem allowance – 3 cm. First print the paper patterns and lay them out on the fabric width (90–150 cm) to determine how much fabric you need (remember paired and symmetrical pieces). Match the notches when stitching!
- From main fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Neckline Facing – 1 piece
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From lining fabric:
- Center Back – 2 pieces
- Side Back – 2 pieces
- Front – 2 pieces
- Side Front – 2 pieces
- Upper Sleeve – 2 pieces
- Lower Sleeve – 2 pieces
- From fusible interfacing:
- Center Front Facing – 2 pieces
- Neckline Facing – 1 piece
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse interfacing to the Center Front Facings and the Neckline Facing.
- Mark and stitch the bust dart on the front and press it. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back.
- Place the fronts right sides together and align edges, measuring the length of the front edges. Stitch the separating zipper to the front edges. Fold under the edges of the front along the zipper section and press.
- Place the Center Front Facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the neckline section of the front for 2-3 cm. Stitch from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the facings to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch along the front edge at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder seams of the Neckline Facing and Center Front Facings. Stitch the facings to the back and front neckline. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten the seams and press.
- Stitch the Upper Sleeve to the Lower Sleeve along the back (elbow) seam and press open. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front sleeve seam.
- Set in the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- Stitch the lining pieces together and set in the lining sleeves, leaving an opening in the front seam of the right sleeve.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the Center Front Facings and the Neckline Facing.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
