Collarless Front Zipper Jacket
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a collarless jacket, featuring a sleek front zipper and tailored princess seams for a refined, fitted silhouette.
When To Wear
This jacket is a versatile piece, perfect for adding a polished touch to various occasions:
- Professional Settings: Ideal for office wear or business casual events.
- Smart Casual Gatherings: a sophisticated layer for dinners, outings, or social events.
- Transitional Seasons: Provides warmth and style as a chic outerwear option.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Fitted through the bodice, reaching hip-length.
Neckline: Collarless, with a clean, round neckline.
Closure: Center front separating zipper.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves for a tailored fit.
Shaping: Front and back feature princess seams for a sculpted, figure-flattering shape.
Hem: Straight hemline.
Length: Hip-length.
Lining: Fully lined for a clean finish and comfortable wear.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires skills in setting separating zippers, constructing princess seams, full lining assembly, and setting in shoulder pads & sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Select medium-weight fabrics with some body to achieve the desired structure and drape:
- Wool or wool blend fabrics
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 1 separating zipper
- 1 pair of shoulder pads
- 1 pair of sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Facing neckline – 1 qty
- Front facing – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- From lining fabric:
- Back center – 2 qty
- Back side – 2 qty
- Front – 2 qty
- Front side – 2 qty
- Sleeve upper – 2 qty
- Sleeve lower – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: front facing, back neckline facing.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to front facing and back neckline facing.
- Mark and stitch the dart on the front. Press the bust dart. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the front.
- Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the princess seams on the back.
- Place front PANELs right sides together and align edges, measuring the length of the front edges. Attach the zipper to the edge of the front. Fold under the edges of the front along the zipper section and press.
- Place the front facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin and stitch along the front edge and the neckline section of the front for 2-3 cm. Stitching is done from the front side. Attach the lower edges of the front FACINGs to the front strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front. Turn the fronts right side out, straighten the seams. Topstitch along the front edge at a distance of 0.5 cm.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and front facing. Finish the neckline of the back and front. Turn the facing to the wrong side, straighten the seams and press.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the hem of the sleeve. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set in the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pattern pieces, stitch the seams and set in the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the front FACINGs and the back neckline facing.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve.
