Jacket with Gathered Sleeve-Cap Overlays
Introducing a chic women's sewing pattern for a structured jacket, featuring a tailored silhouette and distinctive gathered overlays at the sleeve caps.
When To Wear
This sophisticated jacket is versatile and ideal for various settings, making it a perfect choice for:
- Professional Chic: Adds a polished and confident touch to office attire or business casual ensembles.
- Elevated Everyday: Ideal for transitioning from day to evening, offering a stylish layer over smart-casual outfits.
- Statement Occasions: a unique piece for events where a blend of modern elegance and distinctive design is desired.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: Tailored and fitted through the torso, extending to a refined hip-length cut.
Neckline & Collar: Classic notched lapel design with a V-neck opening, creating a sharp and sophisticated neckline.
Closure: Concealed front closure utilizing 11 loops and hooks, ensuring a clean and uninterrupted front aesthetic.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves are accented with unique gathered overlays at the sleeve caps, providing texture and a distinctive design element.
Back: Features flattering vertical princess seams and a center back seam for a sculpted, fitted appearance.
Hem: Straight hemline designed to finish neatly at the hip.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. This project requires confident tailoring skills, including precise collar and lapel construction, multi-panel assembly, lining, and the application of shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
Fabric Recommendations
Choose fabrics made from natural or blended fibers that provide good structure and drape for tailored garments:
- Suiting fabrics
- Wool blends
- Gabardine
- Twill
- Linen blends
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- 11 loops and hooks
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads
Cutter's Must
- From main fabric:
- 1. Back side – 2 qty
- 2. Front side – 2 qty
- 3. Facing – 2 qty
- 4. Undercollar – 1 qty
- 5. Upper Collar – 1 qty
- 6. Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- 7. Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- 8. Sleeve Cap – 2 qty
- 9. Center back – 2 qty
- 10. Center front – 2 qty
- 11. Back neckline facing – 1 qty
- From lining fabric:
- 1. Back side – 2 qty
- 2. Front side – 2 qty
- 3. Upper sleeve – 2 qty
- 4. Lower sleeve – 2 qty
- 5. Center back – 2 qty
- 6. Center front – 2 qty
- From fusible interfacing: facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, center front.
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse fusible interfacing to the facing, back neckline facing, upper collar, center front, and armhole edges of the front and back.
- Mark darts on the front and back. Stitch and press back darts towards the center. Stitch front darts, trim dart depth, and press open.
- Place upper collar and undercollar right sides together and stitch. Trim seams, turn, and press the collar.
- Mark and sew buttonholes on the right front, and sew hooks on the left front. Place the facing on the right side of the front, right side down, pin, and stitch along the edge. Stitch from the front side up to the notch, which indicates the end of the collar attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the facing to the front precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the edge. Topstitch the seam allowances of the edge: in the fastener area – to the facing, in the lapel area – to the front edge. The stitching should be 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the edges to the right side and press the seams.
- Stitch and press open the princess seams of the front and back. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the shoulder and side seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline facing and facing. Attach the undercollar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back facing and facing.
- Along the upper and lower edges of the sleeve cap, stitch with loosely tensioned stitches 0.5 cm from the edge and gather.
- Attach the sleeve cap to the upper sleeve. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the sleeve. Press the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the sleeve.
- Set the sleeves into the armholes according to the notches. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
- On the lining fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the sleeves, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam.
- Attach the lining to the inner edges of the facing and back neckline facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure close to the seams.
- Attach the lining to the bottom of the jacket and sleeve. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the sleeve. Stitch the opening in the sleeve closed.
