Stand-Collar Utility Jacket
This women's sewing pattern creates a chic, tailored utility jacket featuring a structured stand collar, multiple functional flap pockets, and a refined, fitted silhouette.
When To Wear
This versatile jacket is suitable for adding a sophisticated utility aesthetic to various outfits:
- Smart Casual: Elevate everyday wear with its structured yet relaxed appeal.
- Professional Settings: A stylish alternative to a blazer for a modern, polished look.
- Transitional Seasons: Provides lightweight warmth and style for spring or autumn.
Key Design Features
Silhouette: A tailored, fitted jacket with shaping seams through the front and back for a flattering, defined waist, ending at hip length.
Neckline & Collar: Features a sharp, structured stand collar for a distinctive, modern look.
Closure: A clean front placket with a concealed closure, allowing for a streamlined aesthetic.
Sleeves: Long, two-piece set-in sleeves, each adorned with a small flap pocket on the upper arm for a distinctive utility detail.
Pockets: Four prominent flap pockets on the front torso (two at the chest, two at the hip), along with two additional flap pockets on the upper sleeves, all contributing to the utility aesthetic.
Back: Designed with vertical princess or side back seams, creating a tailored fit and shaping the jacket through the waist.
Hem: A straight, clean-finished hemline.
Level Of Difficulty
Advanced. Requires experience with tailoring techniques, including working with lining, interfacing, multiple pocket constructions, and precise seam matching for a structured finish.
Fabric Recommendations
Select medium-weight woven fabrics with some structure to achieve the jacket's tailored silhouette:
- Woven fabrics made from natural or blended fibers
Additional Supplies
- Lining fabric
- Fusible interfacing
- Shoulder pads
- Sleeve heads (or sleeve rolls)
- Velcro tape
Fabric & Materials
From main fabric: From LINING fabric: FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: FACING, flap, BACK PANEL neckline FACING, center FRONT PANEL, SIDE PANEL, upper COLLAR.
CUTTER'S MUST
- From main fabric:
- 1. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 2. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 3. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 4. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 5. Stand – 2 QTY
- 6. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- 7. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- 8. Front FACING – 2 QTY
- 9. Back neckline FACING – 1 QTY
- 10. FRONT PANEL Yoke – 2 QTY
- 11. Flap 1 – 2 QTY
- 12. Side flap – 1 QTY
- 13. Patch pocket 1 – 1 QTY
- 14. Flap 2 – 8 QTY
- 15. Side pocket 2 – 4 QTY
- 16. Patch pocket 2 – 4 QTY
- From LINING fabric:
- 1. Center FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 2. Side FRONT PANEL – 2 QTY
- 3. Center BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 4. Side BACK PANEL – 2 QTY
- 5. Upper SLEEVE – 2 QTY
- 6. Lower SLEEVE – 2 QTY
Sewing Instructions
- Fuse FUSIBLE INTERFACING to the front FACING, flap, back neckline FACING, center FRONT PANEL, SIDE PANEL, and upper COLLAR.
- Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press darts on the BACK PANEL towards the center.
- Fold the stand pieces right sides together and stitch. Trim seam allowances at corners, turn right side out, shape, and press the stand.
- Stitch and press open the center BACK PANEL seam.
- Stitch the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL. Press open the princess seams on the FRONT PANEL and BACK PANEL.
- Attach the yoke to the FRONT PANEL. Press open the seam.
- Fold the upper flap pieces right sides together and stitch along the outer contour. Turn the flap right side out through the upper open edge. Shape the seams and topstitch with a double stitch 0.2 cm from the flap edge. The second flap is processed similarly. Mark the pocket placement on the FRONT PANEL. Overcast the side edge of the upper pocket FACING. Attach the upper pocket FACING to the side and bottom edges of the pocket and overcast. Turn under and topstitch the upper edge of the pocket. Create a pleat on the pocket FACING and secure it to the pocket with a vertical bar tack 1-1.5 cm. Place the pocket on the marking and topstitch it. Place the flap on the marking and topstitch it. Turn the flap to the right side and topstitch 0.2 cm from the stitching line. The second pocket (on the SLEEVE) is processed similarly.
- Place the front FACING on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front edge. Stitching is done from the FRONT PANEL side up to the NOTCH, which defines the end of the COLLAR insertion. Attach the lower edges of the front FACING to the FRONT PANEL strictly along the marked hemline. Trim the seam allowances of the upper and lower front edge corners. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front edge stitching onto the front FACING in the fastener area. The stitching is 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front edges to the right side, shape the seams.
- Stitch and press open the side and shoulder seams of the jacket.
- Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neckline FACING and front FACING. Insert the lower COLLAR into the jacket neckline, and the upper COLLAR into the neckline edge of the back FACING.
- Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Mark the pocket and flap placement on the SLEEVE. Topstitch the pocket and flap onto the SLEEVE. Press the SLEEVE hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
- Insert the SLEEVES into the armholes according to the NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and SLEEVE head rolls.
- On the cut LINING pieces, stitch the seams and insert the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right SLEEVE seam.
- Attach the LINING to the inner edges of the front FACING and back neckline FACING. Press open the COLLAR insertion seam allowances and secure them close to the seams.
- Attach the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE.
- Mark and sew the Velcro tape.
