Sculpted Wrap Jacket with Side Tie

CUTTER'S MUST

• From main fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – QTY 2
2. BACK SIDE PANEL – QTY 2
3. FRONT YOKE – QTY 2
4. FRONT UPPER PANEL – QTY 2
5. FRONT MIDDLE PANEL – QTY 2
6. FRONT LOWER PANEL – QTY 2
7. FRONT FACING – QTY 2
8. BELT 1 – QTY 2
9. BELT 2 – QTY 2
10. SLEEVE UPPER PART – QTY 2
11. SLEEVE LOWER PART – QTY 2
12. LOWER COLLAR – QTY 1
13. UPPER COLLAR – QTY 1
14. BACK NECK FACING – QTY 1
• From LINING fabric:
1. BACK PANEL – QTY 2
2. BACK SIDE PANEL - QTY 2
3. FRONT YOKE – QTY 2
4. FRONT LOWER PANEL – QTY 2
5. SLEEVE UPPER PART – QTY 2
6. SLEEVE LOWER PART – QTY 2
• FROM FUSIBLE INTERFACING: front facing, front yoke, front upper panel, front middle panel, front lower panel, sleeve hem, jacket hem, back neck facing, upper collar

Sewing Instructions

1. Fuse interfacing to the front facing, front yoke, front upper panel, front middle panel, front lower panel, sleeve hem, jacket hem, back neck facing, and upper collar.
2. Mark darts on the BACK PANEL. Stitch and press BACK PANEL darts towards the center.
3. Place the upper collar and lower collar right sides together and stitch. Trim seams, turn right side out, and press the collar.
4. Stitch the front upper panel to the front yoke, press the seam open. Stitch the front middle panel to the front upper panel, press the seam open. Stitch the front lower panel to the front middle panel, press the seam open.
5. Place BELT 1 pieces right sides together and stitch along three sides, leaving the side edge of the belt free. Turn right side out and press the belt. Process BELT 2 similarly. Attach the belt to the edge of the front opening (attach the long belt to the left front opening, and the short belt to the right).
6. Place the front facing on the right side of the FRONT PANEL, right side down, pin, and stitch along the front opening. Stitch from the FRONT PANEL side upwards to the NOTCH, which marks the end of the collar attachment. Stitch the lower edges of the front facings to the FRONT PANEL precisely along the marked hemline. Trim the seams of the upper and lower corners of the front opening. Topstitch the seam allowance of the front opening: in the fastener area – to the front facing, in the lapel area – to the FRONT PANEL. Position the stitching 0.2 cm from the seam. Turn the front openings to the right side, and press the seams.
7. Stitch and press open the center back seam. Stitch and press open the BACK PANEL princess seams. Stitch and press open the jacket's shoulder and side seams, leaving an opening in the right side seam for the belt at waist level.
8. Stitch and press open the shoulder edges of the back neck facing and front facing. Attach the lower collar to the jacket neckline, and the upper collar to the neckline edge of the back neck facing and front facing.
9. Stitch and press open the elbow seam of the SLEEVE. Press up the sleeve hem. Stitch and press open the front seam of the SLEEVE.
10. Set the SLEEVES into the armholes, aligning NOTCHES. Insert shoulder pads and sleeve heads.
11. On the LINING fabric pieces, stitch the seams and set the SLEEVES, leaving an opening in the front right sleeve seam and the left side seam for the belt.
12. Stitch the LINING to the inner edges of the front facings and back neck facing. Press open the collar attachment seam allowances and secure them close to the seams. Secure the LINING to the main fabric at the belt opening.
13. Stitch the LINING to the bottom of the jacket and SLEEVE. Turn the jacket right side out through the opening in the SLEEVE. Stitch the opening in the SLEEVE closed.