Asymmetric Overlap-Hem Skirt with Elasticated Side Waistband

Name: Asymmetric Overlap-Hem Skirt with Elasticated Side Waistband
Brand: Minerva Patterns
SKU: 5502
Price: 5.00 EUR
Availability: InStock

Pattern #5502

A mid-calf women's straight skirt with an asymmetric hem that gives a layered, overlapping line at the front and back, a waistband elasticated at the sides, a centre back zip and a full lining. Drafted to your own measurements. Recommended fabric: fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Tech. Description

Asymmetric Overlap-Hem Skirt with Elasticated Side Waistband

A mid-calf women's straight skirt with an asymmetric hem that gives a layered, overlapping line at the front and back, a waistband elasticated at the sides, a centre back zip and a full lining.

When To Wear

For the office and daytime events with blouses, shirts and fitted jackets.
In spring and autumn with knitwear tucked in or worn over the waistband.

Key Design Features

Silhouette: Straight, narrowing slightly towards the hem.

Length: Mid-calf at the longest point.

Waist: Interfaced fold-over waistband with elastic stitched in along the sides, so the fabric gathers at the hips while the centre front and centre back stay flat. One button and buttonhole at the centre back.

Front: One piece with two darts, pressed towards the centre.

Back: Separate left and right back pieces joined by a centre back seam, with darts and a 20 cm zip.

Skirt: The hem curves up across the front and the back and drops at the side to a lower point, so the hemline looks like one layer lying over another. The extended side edges are topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Finishing: Hem overlocked, turned up and topstitched.

Lining: Full lining cut to the same front and left and right back pieces; pleats at the top of the lining stand in for the darts, and the zip opening of the lining is topstitched 0.5 cm from the edge.

Level Of Difficulty

Intermediate. An asymmetric hem, a centre back zip, a pleated lining joined at the waist and a waistband with elastic stitched in under tension.

Fabric Recommendations

Fabrics from natural or blended fibres.

Additional Supplies

Lining fabric
Fusible interfacing (waistband)
1 zip, 20 cm
1 button
Elastic tape

Cutter's Must

From main fabric:
Front – 1 piece
Left back – 1 piece
Right back – 1 piece
Waistband – 1 piece
From lining fabric:
Front skirt half – 1 piece
Left back skirt half – 1 piece
Right back skirt half – 1 piece

Sewing Instructions

Reinforce with fusible interfacing: waistband.
Mark darts on the front and back panels. Stitch darts on the front and back panels. Press darts on the front towards the center front, and on the back towards the center back.
Overlock the side edges of the front and back panels, and the center back edge.
Stitch the center back seam of the back up to the notch for the zipper. Press open the center seam and press the zipper openings.
Overlock the bottom edge of the skirt, fold, press, and topstitch onto the skirt.
Insert the zipper into the center seam of the skirt.
Stitch and press open the side seams of the garment. Topstitch along the extended side edges of the skirt at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
Overlock the center back edge of the lining. Stitch the center seam of the skirt up to the notch for the zipper. Press open the center seam of the lining and press the zipper opening. Topstitch along the opening at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge. Stitch and overlock the side edges of the lining. Press the side seams of the lining towards the back. Overlock, fold, and topstitch the bottom edge of the lining. Press the bottom hem. Create pleats on the upper edge of the lining and secure with a 2 cm tack at a distance of 0.5 cm from the upper edge. Place the skirt lining with the garment wrong sides together, aligning the side seams and darts with the created pleats on the lining. Even out the upper edges of the lining and skirt, secure them together with a stitch at a distance of 0.5 cm from the upper edge.
Press the waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong side in, and overlock the lower inner edge of the waistband.
Cut elastic tape according to size. Secure the elastic tape across the waistband at the sides. Topstitch, stretching, the elastic tape along the waistband. Attach the waistband to the upper edge of the skirt and face the corners of the waistband. Topstitch the lower edge of the waistband into the waistband attachment seam. Make the buttonhole and sew on the button.